With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm
aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk
but... what about condensation issues?
It’s not going to affect the fire risk if you have a dodgy dryer.
I would worry about condensation. I once extended my dryer hose when it was
temporarily located in my garage and I was surprised at just how much
condensation occurred due to the extra length.
I suppose as long as the run isn’t too long you’d be fine.
About 2m by the time it has got through the wall. The wall kits seem to
use it anyway.
I have had a look round the supplier sites since I posted. No
restrictions found. Wickes looks OK although there are plenty of others.
Is reducing the air flow resistance a benefit anyway?
Having disassembled a few over the years, I just don't like to think of
the gathered crud:-(
You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for ali or
plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.
You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to condensation -
although that tends to be a combination of ali foil and plastic.
Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler
installer. Next I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the water
softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3
fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility sink
and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.
Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.
I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't seem
to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70 deg.C
Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the
Dogs breakfast? Tumble drier and washing m/c go to the right of the
Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it
doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops
the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.
I wonder if the flow is sufficient to maintain the 3 though?
We have an electric mains pressure shower and the toilet next door. To
stop the toilet from dropping the pressure (and potentially
temperature) on the shower too much, I set the isolator valve on the
toilet to just fill the (split flush) cistern at a rate that was a
slow as acceptable between uses (say 5 mins).
A pressure regulator on the shower (or toilet or both?) might have
done the same thing, assuming the flow could maintain the minimum
The pressure / flow here was always ok as we were at the beginning of
the run to the 7 houses in the terrace. Not so for those in No7
though, who would often be down to a trickle is everyone (then anyone)
else was using it.
When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in
directly and they re-fed the other 6 houses across our property with a
new plastic pipe to the boundary of No2. Some years later they ran a
new main to all 6 houses using a mole. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Well I did say small draw off:-)
This supply is a private connection to the 3" main. First 15m is 1"
alkathene, next 30m 32mm blue poly, uncertain what crosses the road but
say 25mm followed by the meter and 20m of 25mm.
All the valves are fully open less a 1/4 turn.
The reasons for fitting the valve were serious splashing from basin taps
anywhere near fully open and a concern about the life of all the flexi
At the time I tried the initial pressure was good and unlikely to be
affected by other consumers: farmhouse, pony club and very distant
I'm hoping the barn development will force the water co. to upgrade.
You did, but that depends on how good (bad) the supply is. ;-)
Well, that confirms the chances are you have a pretty good flow as
With those pipe sizes I agree. Unless you aren't also filling your
swimming pool. ;-)
<snip> >>When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in
From what you said it sounds like they might.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are
also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm
guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V),
voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the
controller up by guessing.
p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh
install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only)
Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)
On Saturday, 15 September 2018 09:57:33 UTC+1, Tim Lamb wrote:
I'm not sure flexi aluminium is much smoother inside than plastic.
I'd prefer 4" waste pipe for any lengthy runs. Waste pipe also comes with rodding eyes :-)
If it's going through fire compartments then it should be steel with sprung fire-flaps with fusible links.
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