With the recent fuss about utility fires I was contemplating using 100mm aluminium flexible duct rather than the usual plastic.
Lower air flow resistance, less likelihood of trapped fibres/fire risk but... what about condensation issues?
just service the machine now and again ......
It?s not going to affect the fire risk if you have a dodgy dryer.
I would worry about condensation. I once extended my dryer hose when it was temporarily located in my garage and I was surprised at just how much condensation occurred due to the extra length.
I suppose as long as the run isn?t too long you?d be fine.
Tim
About 2m by the time it has got through the wall. The wall kits seem to use it anyway.
I have had a look round the supplier sites since I posted. No restrictions found. Wickes looks OK although there are plenty of others. Is reducing the air flow resistance a benefit anyway? Having disassembled a few over the years, I just don't like to think of the gathered crud:-(
You may get condensation in the duct - but that would be true for ali or plastic. Having it routed so that it can drain will help.
You can get some twin wall duct that is more resistant to condensation - although that tends to be a combination of ali foil and plastic.
I'm not sure flexi aluminium is much smoother inside than plastic.
I'd prefer 4" waste pipe for any lengthy runs. Waste pipe also comes with rodding eyes :-)
If it's going through fire compartments then it should be steel with sprung fire-flaps with fusible links.
Owain
Ha! Ha! First came the electrician closely followed by the boiler installer. Next I put in the waste for the washing m/c. Then the water softener man demonstrated how to do a 90 deg. bend using only 3 fittings. When I came to couple up the h/c for the shower, utility sink and washbasin there was hardly any wall left available.
Routing the drier vent is going to be tortuous.
I must put up a photo and you can all have a laugh. Plumbers don't seem to have much concern that PVC insulation is only good up to 70 deg.C
Not possible to arrange a fall with our tumble drier. Comes off the bottom.
Have you considered using a condensing TD?
Well you can use:
and if condensation is really a problem, then:
I think I'll go with the Wickes offering and see if problems arise.
See Dropbox photo for access issues!
Not come across that. I wonder how many builders have?
>In message , Tim Lamb writes
Dogs breakfast? Tumble drier and washing m/c go to the right of the water softener.
Big disappointment with the Screwfix pressure regulator. Basically, it doesn't. Static pressure is around 5 bar. Even a small draw off drops the indicated pressure to 1.5bar from the 3 set.
I wonder if the flow is sufficient to maintain the 3 though?
We have an electric mains pressure shower and the toilet next door. To stop the toilet from dropping the pressure (and potentially temperature) on the shower too much, I set the isolator valve on the toilet to just fill the (split flush) cistern at a rate that was a slow as acceptable between uses (say 5 mins).
A pressure regulator on the shower (or toilet or both?) might have done the same thing, assuming the flow could maintain the minimum pressure?
The pressure / flow here was always ok as we were at the beginning of the run to the 7 houses in the terrace. Not so for those in No7 though, who would often be down to a trickle is everyone (then anyone) else was using it.
When we had the bathroom / extension done we had a new main run in directly and they re-fed the other 6 houses across our property with a new plastic pipe to the boundary of No2. Some years later they ran a new main to all 6 houses using a mole. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
In message , T i m writes
Well I did say small draw off:-)
This supply is a private connection to the 3" main. First 15m is 1" alkathene, next 30m 32mm blue poly, uncertain what crosses the road but say 25mm followed by the meter and 20m of 25mm.
All the valves are fully open less a 1/4 turn.
The reasons for fitting the valve were serious splashing from basin taps anywhere near fully open and a concern about the life of all the flexi tap connectors.
At the time I tried the initial pressure was good and unlikely to be affected by other consumers: farmhouse, pony club and very distant neighbours.
I'm hoping the barn development will force the water co. to upgrade.
You did, but that depends on how good (bad) the supply is. ;-)
Understood.
Well, that confirms the chances are you have a pretty good flow as well etc.
With those pipe sizes I agree. Unless you aren't also filling your swimming pool. ;-)
From what you said it sounds like they might.
Cheers, T i m
p.s. I'm guessing the handlebar controls for that powered wheel are also now mixed with steel in China? I wanted to test it and whilst I'm guessing the 3 pins on the jack plug might be live (probably 5V), voltage back from a pot and ground, I didn't want to risk blowing the controller up by guessing.
p.p.s. The PC had a day running DBAN and is now running a fresh install of XP as my niece might enjoy some of the (XP only) Edutainment CD's that our daughter did at her age. ;-)
Sorry mate, what bit are you confused by?
Cheers, T i m
In message , T i m writes
Yes. Likely. Angela might recall the operation but nothing technical. I never used it. Switch and variable speed so pot of some value.
Excellent. It had a replacement power supply in the first month and some extra memory towards the end.
As you say, I think there is an 'ignition key', an on off (or could be fwd / rev?), a 'Max speed' pot and what looks like a thumb throttle?
With twin fans.
2G I think. XP runs pretty fast in that and would make a perfectly good WP etc.Well, I'm still using it every day for pretty well everything. ;-)
Cheers, T i m
Normal d-i-y thread drift related to some hardware disposal:-)
Needs a fresh thread on motor assisted wheelchair recycling.
Quite ... and it was under a p.s. and obviously to you so I'm really not sure what Jim found so confusing?
I wonder how many on here (other than you now I) have any experience of such?
Cheers, T i m (G7ICW) ;-)
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