But watch out if you have a B&D power plane, as my one spins 'front to back'. So you have to work from the middle of the door outwards!
I have all sorts of tools that I've found out the hard way I'm not really competent to use.
That's probably true of any tool in anyone's hands though ;-)
Other thing is to lay a bit of wood with parallel sides on the floor up against the door and mark it. Then use that line as a level guide for your batten when cutting. In case the floor isn't level.
The problem with that is you need to know how much to trim off before the carpet has been laid.
Mike
Unless your jigsaw blades are a lot more rigid than my Bosch ones the thickness of a door will cause the blade to wander all over the place making the bottom of the cut very wavy. Mike
I made a sawboard once, but on the very first cut with it, my saw let the smoke out, unfortunately the replacement saw had a wider rather than narrower sole plate, so it could be cut-down to fit.
Now I have a pair of clamp guides
And the saw has a dymo label on it reminding me of the distance from either side of the sole plate to the far edge of the blade, thankfully both my blades have a kerf width of 2mm, if I have to cut from the 'wrong' side.
I had to take a few millimetres off one of our doors.
I marked the depth with a pencil, then hand plane, door on one side, cutting down. Of course you can't make the edge splinter - the floor is in the way! So you have to turn it over to do the bit that was by the floor. No real problem there, I don't see what all the fuss is about.
Andy
A good quality jigsaw with a bit of pendulum action on can usually cut a door fairly straight IME - so long as you don't try to force a cut line along a batten. Oddly enough the egg box doors can be much harder to cut with a jigsaw than solid ones.
I always find the screws are painted in, in an older property.
Clean the slots out well and use the /big/ screwdriver.
I find an impact driver works well where screws have been painted over.
Dig out the paint from the slots with a pointy thing; insert screwdriver and give it a whack with a hammer before twisting, to make sure it's well seated.
Its one of those jobs for which the old clomp it with a hammer style impact driver is actually quite handy:
(I must have bought that over 35 years ago, and I have probably found a use for it about once per decade!)
The old brace and bit is good for waking up screws, something to do with the impact of the swing
I was pleasantly surprised a while ago to find that my father's old ratchet B&B circa 1950 was quite happy to take hex Phillips and pozi bits, as well as the traditional flat blade screwdriver bits designed for it. You can get a lot of torque as well as pressure with a B&B, sometime more than enough to simply shear off the screw.
I hardly ever use a plane these days. My late father in law (who was a wonderful carpenter) used to sharpen them for me, but I can't manage anything like the edge. And yes, I've read all the articles and have all the kit. I just don't have the touch. Yet I can reliably get dimensions to one or two tenths with an ordinary micrometer.
... and if you cut it will a saw rather than a plane you will have exactly the right bit of framing wood left inside the piece you just cut off (just peel off the hardboard strips.
R
Really? Have you checked for Live / Neutral reversed?
;-)
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