Consider fitting rising but hinges and you may get away without having
to cut the doors (or limit the cut), especially if there is a metal
carpet joining strip at the door which will compress the carpet at that
If you only have a jig saw and a manual plane lay the door across a
table or something with it horizontal. Clamp some bits of wood to the
edges of the door at the bottom to prevent the saw splintering it.
Position a straight piece of wood across the door to guide the saw, and
clamp it firmly. Use the saw with no elliptical action so it doesn't
splinter the wood. Also you might decide to score along the cut line
with a knife, again to prevent splintering. In that case cut with the
saw a tiny distance away from the score line. Use to plane to finish
off, being careful not to splinter the edges.
I had to take a few millimetres off one of our doors.
I marked the depth with a pencil, then hand plane, door on one side,
cutting down. Of course you can't make the edge splinter - the floor is
in the way! So you have to turn it over to do the bit that was by the
floor. No real problem there, I don't see what all the fuss is about.
But watch out if you have a B&D power plane, as my one spins 'front to
back'. So you have to work from the middle of the door outwards!
I have all sorts of tools that I've found out the hard way I'm not
really competent to use.
On Saturday, March 31, 2018 at 9:06:05 AM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Door fitters use a plane on vertical surfaces because often they don't have room to lay a door out flat. A circular saw cut is dead fast, dead accurate, and always square. No brainer for most of us. Where is TMH when you need him?
I made a sawboard once, but on the very first cut with it, my saw let
the smoke out, unfortunately the replacement saw had a wider rather than
narrower sole plate, so it could be cut-down to fit.
Now I have a pair of clamp guides
And the saw has a dymo label on it reminding me of the distance from
either side of the sole plate to the far edge of the blade, thankfully
both my blades have a kerf width of 2mm, if I have to cut from the
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