Almost impossible to manually "warp" them to fit perfectly - but below are a
few methods that can be used to tidy things up a little.
1 Move the hinges and/or doorstops in or out is the easiest method - or
move the leg of the doorframe to suit.
2 If the doors are bowed in or out at the centre - fit an extra hinge in
the middle of the doors and adjust the slamming stops to suit.
3 If the hinge sides of the doors are ok, but the 'shutting' sides are
bent/bowed/twisted - remove the doorstop and refit in the best position and
use the door catch to keep things 'straight' (you may have to push the door
shut rather hard to get the catch to work).
As for actually "warping" the doors to fit - forget it, as they'll simply go
back to their old position once you've taken any weights or cramps off.
As the information supplied is rather scanty - the above are simply 'best
guesses' from my own past experiences of working on these things.
Are the doors internal (e.g. inside a habitable property) or external (e.e.
outhouses, sheds stables etc), are these doors themselves warped, or are the
frames out of true? Such information, along with links to photos (if you
have any)  of the problem is relevant if you want a correct diagnosis and
 Upload any photos to www.tinypic.com (or a site of your choice) and
then post the links here.
Thanks for that, Cash. The door I most want to deal with is shown in photos
at http://www.flickr.com/photos/70085366@N04/?saved=1 . When it's closed,
the bottom "shutting" corner is about 13mm (~1/2") spaced from the stop on
the frame. At the top corner on the same side it's touching the frame, and
the space increases gradually all the way down - so the door doesn't appear
to be bowed.
On the hinge side it's more uniform and close to the frame, though I think
I can improve it slightly by changes to the hinge and frame (this will make
the problem I describe here slightly worse).
The t&g is about 22mm thick (7/8"). The door is probably at least 55 years
old. I stripped the paint off it, varnished it, and hung it in this frame
about 25 years ago. It probably didn't fit any better then, but I'm trying
to reduce draughts and this is a noticeable source.
Having looked at the photo's, I would appear that the doorframes themselves
have been rebated to accept the door - making things a little more difficult
to resolve without either renewing the door, or some major 'surgery' on the
rebate of the frame itself by making the rebates deeper.
Having said that, from your later description, it may well be that the jambs
of the frame itself are out of parallel with each other  which will give
you the effect that you are having - have you checked that by 'eyeing' the
two jambs? To do that, simply eye the outside edge of one jamb with the
inside edge of the other.
If they are out, then moving the jambs of the into 'parallel will resolve
your problem - but causing a fair bit of damage to paintwork.
If they are parallel, then the other option is (as previously said) to cut
the rebates deeper along the head of the frame and down the slamming jamb to
a depth equalling that of the gap. This (along with fitting draught
excluders) will mostly resolve the problem, but ruin the frame for a new
door, and will look rather ugly aesthetically on the hall side.
If neither of the above methods are acceptable, then you could try fitting
on the dining room side of the door, either an EPDM white draught strip:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/boe9bde OR an aluminium draught strip:
http://preview.tinyurl.com/cmxon4b and then fit a draught brush at the
bottom of the door: http://preview.tinyurl.com/7eqdn3a (the three links are
taken the B&Q site (www.diy.com)
But again, this may look rather out of place with the effect that you have
appeared to obtain with the rest of the room - but that unfortunately is all
that I can suggest, as these doors can be notoriously awkward to
successfully draught proof using the normal methods.
 Rather than 'out of plumb'.
Thank you for that, and I think you have identified the problem. Sighting
along the door jambs does show that they are not parallel, and this is
confirmed by a spirit level. The door seems fairly true, which is pleasing
considering its age and appearance. I think I will try to make a tapered
wooden filling strip to fit along the slamming jamb.
I'll try a brush at the base, but don't know whether it will press too hard
on the carpet as the door is opened. Otherwise it will have to be something
improvised and fixed to the wooden step.
But I'm pleased you have diverted me from the door to the jamb, which does
appear to be the cause of the fault, so thank you.
fred - thanks but it would be rather untidy even for me.
McGyver - don't call us, we'll be in touch...
Would you mind experimenting with some sort of permanently visible
My thoughts were that something like a a guitar neck truss rod could be
used to pull the door into straightness but it would need to stay there
An experiment with some threaded rod, nuts and heavy angle anchors might
be worth a go. I haven't tried this btw.
I don't know of any practical way. But the following impractical method
might work, depending on the type of wood. And it might not destroy the
door. No door is worth this much work unless it's an antique, in which
case you should sell it or donate it to a museum or sent it to a
restoration professional. I offer this only because it was fun to write,
not as a recommendation.
Build a steam cabinet big enough to contain the door. The cabinet would
be oriented so that the door, when it is in the cabinet, is parallel to
the ground. The cabinet must have a flat floor made of something that
will not be affected by heat or steam.
Build a mechanism to lower weight onto the door after it has been
steamed into a malleable condition. One method would be to place the
weight on a hinged lid over the door. (How much weight? Your guess is
as good as mine, but I'm guessing that if you cover the lid with cinder
blocks, that would do it.) The end of the lid opposite the hinge would
be raised and held above the door by a hydraulic jack. The hydraulic
pressure would be released at the proper time by a tool that passes
through a hole in the cabinet wall.
Raise the weighted lid with the jack.
Place the door under the lid.
Close the steam cabinet.
Turn on the steam boiler.
Release the steam into the cabinet.
Periodically release air that has cooled and add more steam so that the
cabinet is full of steam for two hours.
Release the hydraulic pressure so that the weighted lid lowers onto the
Keep the steam going for another hour.
Turn off the boiler and release the steam from the cabinet.
After two days (assuming the cabinet is indoors), jack up the weighted
lid and remove the door.
I know exactly how frustrating this can be, I've had some success in
the past by taking doors off and laying them down outside on a very
hot summers day using bricks and blocks to hold them in a reverse warp
position for a few hours on end until they cooled. As yours are
probably fairly thin this should work better but obviously not a lot
of use to you at this time of year!
I've got some softwood exterior French doors which are bowed enough to
let draughts in so I'm looking to put an espagnolette lock system on
as hopefully the top and bottom shoots will pull the gaps together
If yours are single opening doors I think adjusting your door stops is
going to be the most effective solution really
On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 14:44:22 -0800 (PST), AJH wrote:
Some of them are cupboard doors, tall enough to walk in. I've just tested
one of them and it seems to be about right (still need to remove a spacer
from a hinge and ease a bit that's fouling so I'm not sure yet). It's been
held under stress for about 3 weeks. Two pieces of ply with a hole in each,
connected by strong electric wire to hold in the top, block of wood about
75mm thick to force out the bottom. Time will show whether it retains its
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.