Transformer for an mobility scooter, FIL was so bad he couldnt even use
it, so it lay dormant for a while and batteries went flat (according to
mobility shop) so trying to get it going so I can sell cheap to a needy
Before I could make a start I discover the charger not working and then
what appears to be a fuse missing, I reckon this is on the output for
So at this point Idont know if the batteries are good or bad and could
be charged., one reads 3+ volts the other 10+ volts. I will buy
batteries if need be and price accordingly for selling.
Question: Can I bypass the fuse temporarily to check both charger and
From the image I would bridge the green line. Acceptable?
I wouldn't by-pass the fuse. You don't know why it was removed. If the
charger is faulty, the whole thing could go up in smoke.
That sort of fuse holder is fairly common. You may have one you can
'borrow' from a piece of hi-fi equipment, etc. If not, take the charger
down to Maplins and see whether the cap from one of their fuseholders -
It would likely be my FIL he was 90 and a bloody nightmare, wrecked
everything one way or another.
The green wire is just my indicator as to where I would bridge (bypass)
the fuse, what I am trying to do is bypass the fuse to see if the
charger is working and then try and source a fuse holder for it. Then
proceed to the batteries.
Assuming the fuse is on the output(?) and the output rating of the
charger mentioned somewhere, could you rig up (solder) a similar rated
fuse on a pair of wires and tack the fuse in place across the
fuseholder connections as your test?
I think at the voltages you mentioned the batteries will be shot and
could blow the fuse in any case.
Cheers, T i m
Are you sure that removing a fuse holder is the only "improvement" that he
If a piece of mains equipment has been modified for reasons unknown by
someone who might be classed as "eccentric" then the whole thing could be
Have you considered sourcing a replacement charger?
The batteries are much more straightforward; either they will charge or
I know this is a DIY forum but is there a local competent electrician?
Probably auto electrician? Or a mobility scooter shop which services them?
It looks as though the charger needs a full diagnostic safety check
(whatever that would be), with a view to repair/replace.
AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64
Yes that will be the next option. Trying to keep costs down so I can
sell cheap and give some needy person a bargain, They sell around £3-400
2nd hand, I would let it go for under £100 BUT new charger £25, new
batteries approx £100 so would have to recover costs.
At those voltages the chance of useful recovery are remote, and you
definitely want a current limited charger (as most of the very cheap
ones are) to start with. Or a charger that can be set to low current
It might be, is it the only fuse? If so it's more likely to be the
first thing after any mains switch before the circuit board. Where do
the wires from it go?
Bypass as you show across the two tags on the holder. A bit of 5 A
fuse wire wrapped around each tag and just one strand of wire wire
linking the tags. If you don't have any fuse wire a single strand
from a length of flex will do.
The +3 is probably dead, even if it takes a charge it won't work as
well as the +10 one. As you intend to sell on it's probably best to
get new batteries. Weigh the old ones in, last batteries I weighed in
paid 62p/kg, Probably only a fiver for a couple of mobilty SLAs so
not a great deal but if you happen to passing the scrappy...
On Mon, 15 Jan 2018 02:06:21 +0000, Bill Wright wrote:
It's the weight that is important rather than Ah though there is a
relationship between the two.
I based the "fiver" on about 5 kg/battery and 50p/kg for weighing in,
pessimistic so as not to raise the OPs hopes of retiring on the
proceeds too much. 12 Ah SLAs come in at about 4 kg, 17 Ah about 6
kg, 24 Ah ~ 8 kg. I got 62p/kg for lead acid batteries about this
time last year.
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