Toilet Question...

I am about to re do out bathroom and cloakroom (Currently a delicate shade of avocado!) so stay tuned for some stupid questions!

In the cloakroom, we want to keep the current position of the toilet.

The waste pipe goes into the floor (Solid floor, so if I can avoid digging it up, I will!)

We were looking at the close-coupled toilet here

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am I correct in thinking this toilet has a horizontal outlet, and they are showing an adaptor to make it vertical?

The trouble is, the waste pipe is currently only about 1cm away from the back wall (and I am talking about the actual bricks of the wall, not the plaster)

Would I just use one of these cut to the correct length

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one of these going down?
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:-)

Sparks...

Reply to
Sparks
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Have a look at the flexible pan connector, this will be your lifesaver!! Screwfix part no 17529

Regards

Steve

Reply to
Stephen Dawson

I did see that, but wasn't sure about it - won't, hut hum, "stuff", get stuck in the pleats of it?

Sparks...

Reply to
Sparks

I used one of these about 4 years ago in almost the same situation you describe and it is working fine. The existing toilet outlet was a vertical pipe in a concrete floor and difficult to move but the new toilet wanted to go in the same place. The problem was getting the cistern to be mounted on the wall but keep the existing soil exit pipe. I had to chisel out the concreate around the existing pipe to get the new fitment in. The flexible connecter from screwfix turned out to be the solution. Certainly better than the existing fitment which I discovered was upside down and leaking into the floor under the tiles ;-)

Martin

-- Martin J. Evans Wetherby, UK

Reply to
Martin Evans

I've just been dealing with exactly the same issue in a cloakroom that I am remodelling - including the position of the soil pipe socket next to the wall.

Many of the more attractive designs of sanitary ware are coming from manufacturers in Spain, Italy and even Brazil and they either don't have UK or even English web sites or they are poor and cobbled together.

I did look at Roca products (not this particular one) and found that their main Spanish web site has better illustrations and drawings. Unfortunately, extracting a URL doesn't seem possible. However, try these steps:

-

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- Click on Espana

- Click on Producto (at the top) then Calatogo

- Click on Porcelana Sanitaria in the list

- Click on Series de Porcelana and you will see Dama Senso Compacto

- Click on Inodoros

- Click on Datos tecnicos (bottom right)

Also click on the item itself (349518).0 and then Libreria and you can download a PDF of the catalogue section with details in several languages. (Capitulo de Catalogo).

There there is a better dimensioned drawing than the one on the UK site, showing that it does appear that they use a right angled adaptor of one kind or another. I suspect the the option with the smaller

150mm dimension from the wall uses the right angled pan connector you mentioned while the other perhaps uses one like this which is canted forwards a little.

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suppose that you would want one as far back as possible.

Possibly a flexible connector like

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be better. If there's enough space, you could probably fit in the straight pan connector and a soil pipe elbow with O-ring rather than another pan connector. However, it is likely that the socket in the floor is 110mm and needs the correct adaptor to fit. Wickes have short straight ones

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so, you will need to check dimensions carefully. It's not clear to me whether the back of the pan at the bottom is open below cistern level. It would be useful if it were and goes back to the wall, but I wouldn't count on it. If it isn't open at the back, you might have a problem.

Also, the PDF indicates that the part number above includes pan, cistern and seat but that the adaptors are options.

That's one thing that's important - check what's included and what isn't - often there are optional bits that have to be ordered separately.

For example, I've taken a different approach and am using a wall mounted pan on a Grohe frame attached to the wall and floor. Ultimately this will be panelled and tiled with a granite top and wall cupboard above that. The steel frame is normally used elsewhere in Europe installed into metal stud work and fitted from the sides. The brackets and bolts for fixing to a rear wall are not included and have to be ordered separately.

I'm afraid that attention to detail is really needed, plus contacting the manufacturers and checking. Don't rely on the dealers and distributors or showrooms for this information.

It's time consuming, but expensive to get wrong....

Reply to
Andy Hall

that diagram was a bit confused but never mind. you can buy the vertical version to get the waste going down through the existing waste pipe in the floor.

Its not complicated and a fitter would be able to fit it while waiting to have a crap. Just plonk the new close coupled system by the wall and over the outlet where you want it and if the outlet is not in line you can get an offset multiwick or other fitting to suit it. This is a multiwick with a half bend built in and can be turned at different angles to suit. Those multiwicks are smooth on the inside and pleated on the outside only, the important thing is to make those few bends fit the bowl rather than reworking the waste pipe to suit the bowl, the problem in this is that many plumbers will tell you they have to redo the waste just to make a small job into a big one and that will cost you a few hundred quid at least for what is a simple diy job.

Reply to
noelogara

Pleasant!

Thanks for the re-assurance :-)

Sparks...

Reply to
Sparks

I've just had similar trouble but ended up having to move the toilet forward as keeping it in the previous position would have covered the floor outlet.

A 'shelf' created out of 3x2 and then tiled over provided the clearance I needed and also something to fix the cistern against.

Reply to
F

Thanks for the detailed reply Andy!

SWMBO has seen one of these toilets in a showroom somewhere, so I will go and have a look at it in person! I know the sides are not open, as this is so,thing she specifically wanted "so it doesn't get all dirty behind there and look yucky"

Next question is regarding the water piping...

Currently in the cloakroom, there is a false wall (Ply), about 10cms out from the real wall, this hides three pipes.

1 - 22mm Hot (From tank) 2 - 22mm Cold (from tank) 3 - 15mm Cold mains

I am guessing the toilet has it's own separate mains water feed because it was there before the 22mm was installed. There is an open pipe emerging from the floor behind the toilet, it looks like this was at some point connected to the toilet, then went upstairs, I guess this was the old mains supply, as the current one is in the Kitchen, which is an extension.

I plan to remove the lot so I can remove this false wall, then take the 22mm pipes straight into the bathroom via a different route (looking at my diagram below, they will come from upstairs, down through the boiler house, then under the dining room floor (This one is floorboards and is about a foot higher then the bathroom. Then pop through the wall in the bathroom under the bath, and also behind the Hand Basin.

Now, the floors in the bathroom and cloakroom are all solid concrete - could I dig a channel, and then lay this down

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push 22mm speedfit pipe through it?

If so, how deep do I need to go? (The floors will be eventually tiled)

Is there any restriction on the route I take, or can I do an NTL/Telewest impersonation and weave where I like?

The 22mm supply pips will eventually end up under the bath, so can I just chase some of this conduit from there to the toilet in the bathroom, then again, from the bath, to the shower (Hot and cold), than finally once more form the bath, out of the bathroom door, straight into the cloakroom (in

15mm)? - it looks like it will be the easiest way (all the walls are brick by the way)

Not To Scale! _____________________________________________________ | __________________ ________________________ ____ | || | | | | | || | Boiler -->| | | | | |B| House |___| | | | WC H/B |r| | | | | | \ |i| Old fire place | | | | | Shower \ |c| Now a glasses--> | | | | |___________ \_|k| Cabinet | | | | ____________| |_| | | | | | |H/B \ |W| |___| | | | \ |a| Dining Room \ | | | |Cloakroom _ \ |l| \ | | | | | | |l|______________ \____| |____ | |___WC____| | |______________ | |___________ | ____________| | | | | / | | / /

Reply to
Sparks

I certainly think that if you can go and see the products it helps. Even the best of diagrams don't give all the data needed.

Back-to-wall and wall hung toilets certainly meet the cleaning objective.

That's the purpose of it. I would suggest looking on John Guest's web site and also talking to their technical department- I found them quite helpful.

If I remember correctly, there is a minimum bending radius for these conduit pipes in order to be able to get barrier pipe through it. I believe they do floor boxes as well in case you need to make a sharper turn.

You may need to watch the sizes.

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conduit suitable for 15mm tube has an OD of 24mm and that for 22mm is 30mm. That's a lot to chase in.

Reply to
Andy Hall

I read that as "well-hung toilets"

:-)

Reply to
Frank Erskine

Yes. Well.

Reply to
Andy Hall

The message from Frank Erskine contains these words:

The water's deep as well as cold?

Reply to
Guy King

Generally that's what I find.

Reply to
Andy Hall

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