Toilet fitting - final observations

Just got back from a week's hols to make the following (hopefully useful) observations:

1) Siliconing a toilet (with a 12x8" or so base) down to perfectly clean ceramic tiles works (just as others said it would). Even with 2-3mm of low modulus silicone (Siroflex "trade strength") squeezed well under the edge (which is about 1cm thick on mine) after a week exhibits no noticeable elasticity whatsoever. It might as well be araldite for all I can tell, except silicone has the chance of removal without floor damage. No screws at all. Might get less mileage from a loo with a small base. Using a high modulus silicone *might* get it fixed firmer quicker. I gave it 48 hours before serious use and a week seems to have seen it set fully.

2) A high level flush is well worth it IMHO. The flush is about 1/2 the volume of an old 70's cistern, but certainly clears the bowl in one. Noisy mind, but function over form in my house :)

3) A well made bog with a decent smooth wide throat is also well worth it - no jamming apparent yet (got mine from Bathstore.com). Using 110mm couplings as close to the loo as possible might be a helping factor too (I found a 110 spigot elbow where as soon as you are past the spigot collar, it is the full bore immediately. Much more convincing than those daft restricted pan adaptors B&Q sell that seem to be 80 odd mm all the way.

4) A Fluidmaster Pro float valve seems a very nicely made bit of kit. Brass thread, twist-lock easy to uncouple internal mechanism (ie whole internal lot comes off without a spanner, for servicing). Quiet fast fill from 4 bar mains.

5) A Floplast 110mm AAV is quite "blurpy" when it opens, but you don't hear it over the flush in my case. A smaller AAV or a HepVo might be quieter.

Anyway, hope those snippets are useful to someone...

Cheers

Tim

-- Tim Watts

Reply to
Tim Watts
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It's still better to screw the toilet down in my opinion m8

Reply to
A Plumber

In this case, the base of the loo wasn't flat (though my tiles were, perfectly, 'cos I spent ages with a spirit level while laying them).

So I concluded I needed something conformal under the base anyway. By the time I'd got that far, screws seemed almost pointless.

But for a smaller based loo or if fixing to wood or old tiles (that may have grease/wax on them) or vinyl, I'd definately screw it down.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim Watts

I've only ever use silicone on my toilets and they haven't moved yet. But I've always used "sanitary" silicone. Having recently used the low modulus silicone instead, I wonder is there any reason to ever use anything but low modulus? Is there ever a reason to use high modulus or sanitary sealant, other than price? I'm talking generally here, not just for toilets.

Reply to
Fred

I wondr if the sanitary silicone might have the added fungicides to stop it going mouldy? I did undercut mine so I could get a proper bead of sanitary white in round the edge too.

Reply to
Tim Watts

It says on my tube of sanitary sealant that it does contain fungicides but I wonder how useful they would be on a toilet? I've seen mould on sealant around windows, moist from condensation, and I can see how condensation in bathrooms could cause mould on sealant around baths and basins, but hopefully a toilet would never get that damp?

I wonder why they don't put the fungicides in the other sealants? It would be useful for around windows.

Reply to
Fred

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