toilet fitting / removal

I want to change the old toilet as part of my 2012 lol renovation plans.

From what I can see tghe backbox part is just screwed on 2 screws), is connected to mains, have a turn off valve right there.

Pan 2 screws into chipboard. Rusted in but moveable.

The waste pipe is plastic and not cast iron amen lol.

So is it just a case of draining, removal, and replacing like for like toilet just newer and nicer. Using some push fit connector for the waste pipe part. Screw it all up to wall floor and open the mains and pray it works lol with no leaks.

Never fitted a toilet but had a quick look this morning if its a do-able diy looks it but those words have failed me miserably many times.

Reply to
Matthew.Ridges
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On Wed, 16 Jun 2010 11:26:48 +0100, "Matthew.Ridges" wibbled:

Without a picture of your drain arrangement it is hard to comment, but if you can choose a loo with a spigot at the right height so that one particular type of pan connector works well rather than being 1" off, life is easier. Getting a truely like for like bog would be easiest - depends on ho old your last one is (spigot sizes changes, spigot positions are all over the place etc). I'd suggest a good solid measuring session then wander down the shop and see if anything looks like it has similar dimensions - assume nothing!

Watch out for how far back the floor of the loo projects back in case that fouls something.

Have some plumbing parts handy - especially for a close coupled/low cistern - you're likely to have to adjust the inlet feed pipe and the overflow.

Other than that, bleach in the old cistern and down the bog. Repeat. That sanitises things a bit. Have a rag ready to stuff down the drain while you're fiddly - the sewer gasses can get smelly after a while.

Have access to another loo? If not, I suggest asking a neighbour just in case sod's law makes it go wrong after you pull the old one out.

But with proper preparation it's not too hard.

HTH

Tim

Reply to
Tim Watts

Wot Tim said. Biggest tip I can give you is to buy a flexible tap connector for the water inlet, saves loads of fiddle and won't cross thread.

They look like this

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Reply to
The Medway Handyman

I've done a couple of pans over the years and just laid them on white silicone. Marked round the pan, a ring of silicone and just lay it on top - screws not needed; this was the easy option for tiled floors. There's never been a bother and removal will just be a thin knife under the pan. Rob

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

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Neater way is to use plastic push fit for the final run, more give than copper, and /much/ neater than the flexibles. The proffessional???? fitters of my sister's new bathroom used flexibles, it looks a mess!

Just don't cut it with a hacksaw, the correct cutter is only a few pounds and makes it as easy as cutting string.

Reply to
<me9

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>>>> Neater way is to use plastic push fit for the final run, more give

IMO push fit looks pants and has to be lined up properly or it weeps. Flexibles are they way forward. YMMV.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Then a day cleaning up the old silicone on the floor and base of the pan so you can refit it... Or if chnaging the pan cleaning up the floor where the old silcone is not covered by the foot print of the new pan.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

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