Tips on fixing plasterboard

Just make sure you get consistent amounts on so that they all line up when you are finished. One method of doing this is to use battens top, middle and bottom.

No - I use the wife to hold them for a couple of minutes whilst I bash them flat. Then they are almost irremovable.

Hi Paul. Having just finished plaster boarding my small bathroom (about 7ft X7ft X

Just a thought. Regards. Mike.

You want a longish straight edge and a level. Mix a few gallons at a time of a rather stiff mix. Dot an daub the boards. Pay attention to the edges as they have to have fire breaks formed by the adhesive.

Cut all the boards to fit before mixing. Make sure you have cut holes for everything suc as electricity points and air vents, plumbing and etc.

Lay them out along where they are going to stay and apply the gloop as you go. The straight edge is to keep them all lined up and no bellying in or out. Don't waste time faffing around, just slap the goo on and the boards up. They need to be half an inch off the floor so have some off cuts ready as pads. Plenty of gloop down there too as the adhesive acts as the grounds for skirting board as well as a fire break.

In message , Michael Mcneil writes

When I've seen it done the adhesive was applied to the wall.

What purpose would a firebreak be here? - It's one long wall, made of concrete. Can't see what purpose it would have been when thye did our bedroom wall either.

Make sure you plumb the wall for your first board and continue to check the vertical every other board

Its not very 'Diy', but my recomendation would be to get the plasterers in to do the job. 80ft is a scary amount of wall to 'dot n dab' well, especially if you have never done it before.

I guess though, it depends where the room is and how well you require it finished.

Do you plan to skim the board in the end?

Glen

What's wrong with just skimming the wall directly (after preping the concrete?). It's only a factory after all.

Alex

Air will circulate behind the boards it is not supposed to in a building. Can you say for sure that the room will never need fire protection sometime in the future.

If your bedroom catches fire the breathable air will be at floor level. That's where a fire will be sucking it from.

Just do it. You wanted the advice, take it!

Put it on the board not the wall. You need to know that the stuff is all along the edges.

I think 3 or 4 roughly horizontal strips of 1" wood would be quicker and easier. Nomo nails them on, and when dry glue the PB on. Use 12mm PB btw, less chance of damage later. Dont bother with levels, or getting the wood straight and leve or anything, its of no consequence. As long as the wood ends meet at the same depth.

If you plan to skim the PB, just skim the wall instead.

Regards, NT

or just use high build paint.

In message , Michael Mcneil writes

I'm not doing anything.

No I didn't......

It 's not a good idea to just accept advice -esp. from sources on a group like uk.d-i-y without understanding why you are doing something and making sure it is correct advice

I think its an already fireproof wall, concrete.

Regards, NT

No kidding?

And the plasterboard is going on the outside of it?

I see.

My error.

I was assuming that the boards were going on the inside and would likely be there for a while. Who knows, perhaps through the residency of a number of future occupants. All blithely expecting the stuff was put up properly.

Still if you do turn into a turnip after midnight, they may be able to sue the relevant surveyors?

The survivors or the next of kin that is.

For future reference the fire walling also works as a draught preventative too. It also curtails the transmigration of small animals.

my dear chap, what are you talking about?

NT