That looks very achievable.
Thanks for the details, I guess it is time for some homework.
Are jigsaw blades long (and strong) enough for 50 mm timber narrow enough to follow curves easily?
Chris
OK, if your tools are a secret we can't help.
NT
Yup plenty long and strong enough for that kind of cutting I normally use something like:
(in reality you can cut something so long as the blade can reach through the material at the bottom of the stroke).
I use those when cutting birds mouth joints into 50mm thick rafters for example.
As long as the curve is not too tight. For example I was using a blade like above (although the 14 tpi version) for scribing skirtings with a torus pattern earlier today. That meant cutting round the 1/2" or so radius. The above blades can do that, and possibly a bit tighter if you are brutal with them. (also a cut, backup, turn a bit more, cut again action can get tighter curves).
You can also get skinnier blades for tighter work:
or extra long ones as well:
What about the old fret saw or coping saw?
Clearly you can't although others have been able to.
In addition to what I have already mentioned, I have tenon, rip, hack, pad and tree saws; drills both hand and electric, chisels, grinding wheels, sanders, Surform, planes, multitool, Dremel...
Chris
Oh no, you take most of it out by stitch drilling with something like a
15 mm flat bit.
No, just drill from one side until the pilot drill goes through then flip and drill from the other. Best if you have a pillar drill, obviously.
Of course with enough random-tool suggestions/comments some will be helpful. I'm beginning to think you're trolling.
You can think whatever you like, as can I.
Chris
Oh, the irony.
Coping saw will do it fine. Although it does rather depends on how many need shaping as yo how much fun that will be!
You can't use the pilot drill when using a hole saw to remove just the corner of the wood - there will be nothing for the pilot to drill into that will offer any support / guidance.
I'm trying to think of any saw that couldn't get it at least roughly to sha pe and can't, barring things like self feeding industrial bandsaws. Oh, and a crappy jigsaw with a cheapo stamped blade would be really pushing it.
NT
Just clamp a piece of sacrificial wood of the same depth to the side of the work piece and drill the pilot hole and/or the complete large hole.
You put a second beam edge to edge, and make two parts at once. You have to leave the beam slightly too long and only cut to final length after making the hole. Unless your source timber is more than twice as long as the final beam, then you can do four quadrants with one hole.
That said, I don't think a hole saw is the ideal tool unless you were making a lot of them, in which case you could set up jigs, etc.
You don't even need that, a piece of plywood with the hole in it will act as a guide for a hole saw. You just clamp/stick it to the surface of what you are cutting. You can reuse it many times if you are careful.
Not much point when the work is held in a jig, and the saw in a pillar drill - just remove the pilot altogether.
I can now report complete success with the hole cutting.
This is the holesaw I went with in the end:
I set up a jig, much like yours, and didn't use the pilot drill.
As I couldn't quite get right through because of the saw depth, and also the feed limit on my drill, I reckoned that I would get better registration if I removed the cut material, and re-clamped the workpiece on a packer, continuing from the same side. It worked a treat.
The only problem was slight belt slippage on my Aldi drill press, but this is probably the greatest test it will meet.
To complete the record, I decided that a good jigsaw with blades was going to cost me as much as the corner brackets, so I bought them.
Thanks again for the helpful advice
Chris
Ensele End Grain Treatment
Chris
oh very posh ;-)
Good result ;-)
Yup I think mine was on the limit as well - putting a bit more tension on the belt by moving the motor a bit further out helped.
;-)
I think my thought process would have been, both routes cost the same, but one leaves me with a decent tool at the end of it!
You are welcome.
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