Tiling on wooden bathroom floor

Hi everyone!

New to this most informative forum, and here goes for my firs post/question!

Done a little bit of research and it seems the informed opinion tha marine, or at least exterior grade ply of about 1/2 inch thick shoul be screwed down first to give a good base.

I am a little concerned that this and the thickness of tiles an adhesive would raise the level of the floor too much, (somewhere aroun an inch) such that it might be be significantly higher than th adjoining landing floor.

As the existing floorboards are in less than perfect condition, woul it make sense to remove them and replace the entire area to be tile with a slightly thicker plywood sheet screwed directly to the joists and then tile over that?

If so what thickness would be adequate? - It would make life easy if could use the same thickness as the existing floorboards - the fac that it would be a single sheet and screwed down instead of naile would mean that it ought to be stronger and more rigid than th existing floor, but would that be enough?

As the bath is already installed and I do not propose tiling underneat it I would be keeping the exising floorboards under the bath. It i also a fairly small bathroom so the area to cover is not huge.

Many thanks for your input

-- Andrex

Reply to
Andrex
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-- Andrex

Reply to
Andrex

Agreed.

Sounds a good plan to me. I would have thought 0.5" should be enough, but maybe 0.75" would be preferable? I expect others have an opinion on this.

David

Reply to
Lobster

Whatever you do, do it right. I tiled onto flooring grade chipboard floor panels, thinking these to be sufficiently stiff. I was wrong. After a couple of days of nibbling / cutting tiles around all the furniture the tiles stayed down for a couple more days before I gave up and skipped the lot of em. I'd suggest - to save heartache - err on the side of caution

Reply to
Mike Dodd

Actually, with a thick enough bed of flexible tile cement on a well supported chip, it works fine.

I started with 3mm of non flexible and they all cracked...redid with 6mm of flexible and its all fine now.

Chip is no worse than ply, as long as it stays dry..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

No problem at all.

Use (minimum) 18mm WBP ply. If you want it really rigid, then, at the expense of ease of removal, glue it down with loads of PVA adhesive. PVA is quite cheap in large containers. You should also use some more (heavily diluted) to prime the wood just before laying the tiles.

Choose your tile adhesive wisely for a wooden floor. The best, IMO, is Ardex Flex 7001 Timber System. You'll need to find a local supplier of it from Ardex, but it is worth it. Choose white for light tiles and grey for dark. Use Ardex Flex FS or FL for grouting. Seal the grout to avoid discolouration. Suitable sealant depends on tile type. Use Lithofin MN StainStop for most natural stones.

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Reply to
Christian McArdle

Cheers guys,

I think replacing the floof and using flexible adhesive sounds like the way to go.

Many thanks!

Reply to
Andrex

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