Tiling over wooden floor

[Timothy Murphy]

My wife wants to have tiles in a 2nd floor bathroom, over a not very good wooden floor.

Is this a good idea? If so, what is the best way to go about it?

Any and all suggestions gratefully received.

[Paul Andrews]

Maybe

Lay plywood over the floor and screw it down. Use that to tile onto with flexible adhesive.

[Phil Anthropist]

[Phil Anthropist]

According to

:

Laying on floor boards: 12mm (minimum) marine ply screwed down at 140mm centres. (1/2" at 6" in old money) Prime with a waterproof primer. This will normally result in a step between rooms.

[Andy]

I am also about to tile a bathroom. What if it has chipboard flooring and not boards. Mine seems to be pretty stable and flat, so would you still recommend a layer of ply?

Andy

[Lee]

I would still use ply. I did once tile straight onto a P5 chipboard floor, since the adhesive manufacturer explicitly claimed it was ok to do so. Whilst the tiles still seem to be stuck some 4 years later, I'm not entirely convinced ;)

Lee

[numpty]

Not sure I'm seeing all replies but I'm amazed that none (that I've seen anyway) have mentioned or asked how you're going to get the floorboards up to get at cables/pipes/anything else you may need to in the future, if you tile over them?

Numpty.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Fiarly

If it flexes badly, add joists, If its uneven, pack and screw down 3/4" ply. Otherwise screw down maybe 12mm ply.

Use thick (5-8mm)base of flexible floor tile cement, and a bit of plasticiser in the grout.,

don't play trampolines on it after it has been laid.

[The Natural Philosopher]

Recommend? If you are a purist, yes. Insist? no.

It works BUT - and its a bit of a a but - IF you get a long term drip or leak, and it DOES get in through the grout it WILL deform the chip enough to lift the tiles.

I've got one bathroom done this way, and I did get a leak and it did lift the tiles..I redid it with thicker tiles, thicker cement, and was careful to fix every leak, and its been fine for a couple of years now.

Second bathroom is being done the same way.

[The Natural Philosopher]

You don't.

I am amazed that people don't consider how they are gong to dig up their gardens to get at the pipes and cables under than, or indeed how they dare put light switches in walls except using surface steel trunking. I mean, you might have to take the plasterboard off to get at them.

For heavens sake, my mothers house only sold in 6 weeks for the full asking price because it was stock full of original 1950's plumbing and wiring that HAD NEVER EVER BEEN TOUCHED after 50 years including 3 bathroom and three kitchen makeovers!!

Indeed, I hear that new building regulations will be forcing us to provide an access hatch over every single brick so that if they fail, they can be individually replaced without disturbing the structure.

And mortar will be forbidden, each brick will be screwed in place with stainless steel bolts on a rubber gasket.

And no brick will be allowed at a height greater than a disabled wheelchair user can reach in order to do just this..a ramp will be constructed around every house to make sure they can access every brick without using dangerous life threatening 'ladders'

Indeed...

[Christian McArdle]

You'll need ply over the top.

To avoid an excessive step and because the old wooden floor is bad, it would be far better to remove the old floorboards first and use 18mm ply (or more depending on joist spacing).

Removing floorboards can either go really easily, or with great difficulty (if a load bearing wall has been plonked on top, for example).

Christian.

[The Natural Philosopher]

all the above, and use a thick bed o flexible cement, and if the floor is springy, try and beef up the joists by doubling up or laying herringbone strutting before nailing down the ply.