why havn't they implemented a drain hole in the center for easy draining of them,instead of having bloody water gushing out of one end?
I know you can by a drain tap that fits on before the pipe but if you have not done the CH installation yourself its a bind trying to catch water in a receptical very low down.
Agreed. Like many things a plumbing it seems a poor design. When I drain a rad I use a Wickes/Earlex wet/dry vacuum. Muchos quicker & no mess.
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 22:37:12 GMT, james head down on the keyboard, banged out this message:
Sucks it off the carpet probably .. :-)
Mike P
Bloody water? :-|
I can't say I've ever found draining a rad particularly problematic.
As mentioned on earlier occasions, I have made a gadget which can be used to pump air into a radiator through the bleed screw hole, thus expelling the water into the F&E tank, leaving very little to drain out. It looks like this:
Turn off the lockshield & TRV/whatever, crack open the fitting & suck the water away rather than try & collect it in a tray. The suction will pull the water stream sideways, around pipes etc. Just need to judge how much water is present to avoid vac shutting off.
Sounds like a great idea. But considering the complete nightmare getting air *out* of my system was, I don't think I'll be trying it! :-)
Jon.
There's no need to get any air in the system! You pump air into the dead space at the top of the rad with both valves shut. Then you crack open one of the valves, and you can hear the water flowing out. When it stops, you close the valve again and pump some more air in. When the rad is empty, the last drop of water - accompanied by a very small amount of air - makes a rude noise as it goes through the valve. You immediately close the valve and release the air pressure. You can then safely undo the valve union nuts in the knowledge that there is very little remaining water to catch.
How do you provide the air pressure?
what kind of fuken thick ideot are you? you use a foot pump or a fuken bike pump. Get a brain
Repeat, how do YOU get the air in with BOTH valves shut?
Through the bleeding(!) screw? Are some readers wits so defeated by a good idea when we are given one that their brains just grind to a halt? Bob
I read it as..."How do you provide the air pressure?" ie were do you get the air to pump it through the rad. And as stated a foot pump. :-P
I cannot see why they don't implement an isolating valve on the both rad end connectors like this...
I bought a pack of those and I've had problems with a couple of them (I'm guessing its poor build, not poor use). The main problem is that they leak after a while, and the leaking comes out around the screw that is used to work the valve. So I won't install these any more.
The other problem is that the innards reduce the (presumed) 15mm pipe to
10mm or less, which I guess can lead to flow problems as well as encourage water-flowing noise too. Much better to have a "full bore" valve instead.In general I applaud the idea of isolation valves, but I'd recommend isolating a cluster of radiators.
In my heated conservatory I used those lockshield valves that have an additional draw-off pipe. Much easier for drain-down.
Mungo
Did you see my earlier post with a picture of my gadget? It has a car-type Schrader valve at its input end, so you simply pump air in, using a car foot pump - operated by hand.
Thank you for your considered, comcise & well written reply. I was wondering small compressor or a foot pump. Oh - and I can spell idiot.
Thanks, thats what I was asking. I wondered if a foot pump would be adequate thats all.
Visions of Mickey Mouse as the Sorcerer's Apprentice.....
A melding of two careers...... :-)
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