Testing CH protector strength - Fernox

I'd like to be able test if more protector is required but the 60 second test strips come in 50s at £20+ and it appears you also need a test tube with 10ml markings ??? Not sure that bit's right. Can you get more economical one-off testers?

Reply to
Andy Cap
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Can't recall the exact parameters, but ISTR you can bleed some out into a jar. Leave a piece of copper and iron in contact with each other in the jar, and check the iron doesn't corrode within a few days. The iron needs to be grease-free and not galvanized - you could start by polishing it with steel wire.

Or something like that.

IME, if what you bleed out is relatively clear, it's OK. If it is starting to look more like black ink, the inhibitor has become ineffective.

If it's a sealed system and you never have to top it up, it should last almost forever (mine still seemed OK after about 7 years, with 2-3 small top-ups over that time). Each top-up dilutes it - if you're doing that weekly, it will quickly go.

For a vented system, I would assume 1-2 years life, unless you know it's leaking anywhere.

I use Sentinel X100 (BES is usually a good price).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Thanks for that comprehensive reply. Its a vented system and I guess it must be two years since I added a tube so I think I'll invest in another lot. Cheers

Reply to
Andy Cap

I have no idea if the vented system in this house has ever been tested or treated. Is it a good enough first test to just drain some water from a radiator vent plug while the pump is running and see if it's clear or dirty, and progress depending on the result?

Reply to
Davey

That's nonsense, I'm afraid. It's sodium molybdate, the only way to test it is with a test kit. I looked at getting a kit once and they were too expensive to justify.

It's cheaper to just add more, flush it out first if some other inhibitor may have been added. ISTr that you can't overdose it (within reason).

Reply to
Onetap

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