So your working on those sorts of systems and are that tight to buy a
half decent pro meter?. You can get good Fluke meters on e-bay for
around 40 to 50 quid sometimes. I managed to get one from a S/H test
equipment supplier c/w decent rated leads and fuses etc for that sort of
Buggered if I'd use a cheap chinkie one of dubious origin;!...
Buggered if I would use second hand rubbish. I would not feel too
happy if my gear didn't come out of a box.
Anyway i'm just being practical. The spec on a Wickes meter is more
than adequate for my work. I could destroy it, or a Fluke for that
matter in an instant. Whats wrong with the cable on a Wickes meter
incidentally? What was wrong with the insulation on a two for four
quid Maplin DMM by the way. What is so critical about the rating of
the cables and what do I look for when buying same?
The last Fluke I bought was totally useless BTW. I assumed a DMM
costing £70-00 or thereabouts would have a current range... Wrong!
Just what as a "pro" meter incidentally. Apart from the price how
would you define a meter as being suitable for a professional?
Personally I would deem any meter suitable for a professional if he
knew when and how to use it, and got paid for using it. full stop!
On a final point, within reason I can have any meter I wish, but if
its not over £100-00 or so I can just call into a trade counter or
I think my Wickes meter was £19-00 or so, it does the job as well as a
Fluke would. I didn't have to order the thing and wait for delivery
and the fact that it does not get looked after, gets dropped, soaked
and generally mistreated means that it has outlived my expectations by
at least four years.
One other downside of an expensive meter incidentally is having to
order a replacement less than a month after unboxing the last one.
It has happened!!
On Thu, 08 Aug 2013 00:29:52 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
It's whatever grabs yer! I have actually had a few Flukes, they are
much like any other meter from a practical point of view. I would say
their main advantage is the protection fuse though. It can be damned
difficult wrapping a strand of wire round a 20mm fuse after measuring
Volts on the mA range. The Fluke wins hands down on that score, the
protection fuse is so big, it's a doddle to bypass it!
When I was a young apprentice, before we properly studied "Ohms per
Volt" I bought an Avo 7. The meter lasted around two years before I
pulled it to bits trying to cure an intermittent Ohms range. The Avo 7
was classed as totally unsuitable for my line of work, not only did I
use it, but found it's characteristics very useful for biasing on
transistors and suchlike. The meter served me almost as well as the
Avo 8 that came later.
It isn't what youve got, it's what you do with it!
Oh dear!, that shows your lack of knowledge of good test equipment. Most
all of that is built very well indeed and has a very long service life.
There is a healthy market in used equipment ands it gets there for all
manner of reasons.
Well we need a meter for field use that can handle measurement of very
small currents and voltages and at the same time can check the incoming
mains supplies which are very "stiff" and I wouldn't like to trust a 10
quid or otherwise device across that sort of power!. Its quite easy to
forget to take the leads of the amps measurement range when your
checking three phase supplies;!.
So it didn't measure current at all, which model was that then?..
One that can be calibrated for a start. One that has a good build
quality and one that can cope with accidental connection to rather more
powerful supplies then what you might in a transistor radio for a
I suppose then your version of "professional" differs from mine...
Saw a line of DMMs that had a simple mechanical device, a disc attached to the
range knob, that blocks off the amps and volts lead holes, depending. You either
can't stick the leads in on the wrong setting, or the plugged leads block
turning the knob to an unsuitable position. One still can set it amps and probe
for volts, but not hook up to volts and then set to amps...
Simple and useful idea, wish I'd thought of it.
You can a fair bit from the Cat it claims to match - however I would
only believe it if its also certified by a proper testing authority. (I
have seen a number of cheap meters that claim CAT II or III for example,
but obviously come nowhere close when you look at the internals).
Plenty good enough for most non mains work certainly.
For mains tests, it claims to be Cat II and does have a standards body
stamp on the front. So for measurements in mains appliances that are
connected at least 10m away from the CU it should be safe enough.
(Inadequate for anything in the CU or on a very stiff supply though
On 09/08/2013 18:47, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You might look a bit of a prawn ;-)
and a flame retardant jacket is more the norm when working on
particularly risky situations.
On Thursday, August 8, 2013 4:19:35 PM UTC+2, dennis@home wrote:
Until it goes on the blink. IME these cheapo meters don't last 5 minutes.
I've decided to buy a seperate meter for domestic electricity and will cont
inue to study what's on the market. In the mean time, to replace my old Whi
te Gold meter from Maplin, I popped into my local Maplin store (better the
devil you know) and bought one of these by UNI-T. They're a chinese outfit,
but they make digital storage scopes so should know what they're doing:
I do hope it doesn't turn out to be a pile of shit.
On Thursday, 8 August 2013 17:19:11 UTC+1, email@example.com wrote:
ntinue to study what's on the market. In the mean time, to replace my old W
hite Gold meter from Maplin, I popped into my local Maplin store (better th
e devil you know) and bought one of these by UNI-T. They're a chinese outfi
t, but they make digital storage scopes so should know what they're doing:
From the UT60E manual:
( http://www.uni-trend.com/manual2/UT60BCE%20Eng%20Manual.pdf )
This Meter complies with the standards IEC61010: in
pollution degree 2, overvoltage category (CAT. III 1000V,
CAT. IV 600V;)and double insulation.
CAT. III: Distribution level, fixed installation, with smaller
transient overvoltages than CAT. IV
CAT IV: Primary supply level, overhead lines, cable
However internal photos here:
( http://www.flickr.com/photos/22008695@N03/sets/72157625829258944/ )
Show non-HRC fuses.
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