Table saws

After all this time without one, a current job has driven me to crave a table saw as it's the only way I can think of doing it. I'm sure it would be useful for plenty of other things as well.
Although I fully accept the value of decent kit, I can't really justify (to senior management) splurging too much on this but I'd like to get something that does the job. I also don't have the space for anything too exotic (at least not without a major re-structure of the garage) and, realistically, it's not something I'll use every day.
A lot of the cheaper ones get pretty poor reviews, mostly due to poor alignment but I wonder if that's because people (including me) don't know how to adjust them. So:
1    Can anyone recommend something in the 'not too outrageous' price range? I was looking at this one: http://www.axminster.co.uk/jet-jts-10-bench-top-saw-bench Which seems reasonable, but someone may be able to confirm that or know different.
2    Given the point about adjustment/set-up, is there any way of telling whether a given saw is readily 'setupable' before buying? (in other words, what should there be to adjust to get things square).
Cheers chaps
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On 31/05/2014 10:41, GMM wrote:

IME it's all about the fence and the way it locks to the saw bed. Constant source of frustration if the far end moves under pressure. It should be long enough that you can secure it front and back, albeit with a clamp. An induction motor is much quieter if your budget will run to it
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On 31/05/2014 11:13, stuart noble wrote:

That was a thought I had looking at a number of saws as a little flex could muck things up: Maybe it's a case for judicious bodgery, ie improvising a better fence or at least clamping something alongside the fence to support it?
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On 31/05/2014 11:42, GMM wrote:

Axminster do a fence upgrade lit which is simply superb.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-rip-fence-upgrade?gclid=COja0vHV1r4CFSjItAodq1IApQ
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

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On 31/05/2014 18:20, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Looks good but shouldn't really be necessary with a halfway decent saw
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On 31/05/2014 18:20, The Medway Handyman wrote:

Very nice - but costs nearly as much as I paid for my entire table saw from Machine Mart a few years ago.
I solved the fence rigidity problem by extending the fence with a piece of aluminium angle, and clamping that to the back of the table with a quick action clamp. A bit more fiddly than the Axminster solution, but it works - and didn't cost me anything.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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On 31/05/2014 20:46, Roger Mills wrote:

It costs three times as much as I paid for mine!
The fence is the weakest bit but its easy to clamp it at the other end once its been adjusted. One of those cheap one handed clamps is fine.

A couple of pieces of MDF works well, just screw them together at right angles.
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Worth looking for better prices. http://www.its.co.uk/pd/HS100E-Scheppach-Table-Saw-_SCHHS100E.htm
--
Tim Lamb

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Tim Lamb wrote:

Speaking of whom, their June brochure hit my doormat the other day. I've been humming & harring about Trend varijig straight guides for a while but put off by the price compared to how much use I'd make of them, anyone have any comment on this type of clamp guides?
<http://www.its.co.uk/pd/PROCGPK-Clamp-Guide-Pack-24-50-_PROCGPK.htm
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On 01/06/2014 22:46, Andy Burns wrote:

Good price, even when you add the VAT. Useful for a router, but I prefer a sawboard for a circular saw.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

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The Medway Handyman wrote:

I haven't re-made a sawboard since buying a new saw. If I was cutting think sheets I'd agree, but for ripping 2" off of a thick plank, the problem is clamping the sawboard to the work without obstructing the motor body.
Then again for my planks I'd need the 8' long version of the Varijig anyway; if they sold it with the tall version of their clamps as standard, rather than as extra, I'd probably plump for it. As it is, I've been putting on three quick-grips, then removing/replacing them in turn to allow the saw to pass by, which works, but is a faff.
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On 02/06/2014 08:24, Andy Burns wrote:

Could you not use the rip fence?
I often rip down decking boards at an angle. I just screw the sawboard to the underside of the deck board.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

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The Medway Handyman wrote:

I could, but in general I find them waggly, new saw does have a better fence than old one.

That would be OK I guess, I have a hidden side where a few screw-holes wouldn't be noticed.
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On 02/06/2014 08:03, The Medway Handyman wrote:

You can do a similar jig for a router:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Routerboard
--
Cheers,

John.
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On 31/05/2014 10:41, GMM wrote:

Be aware that they take up a lot of space in a small workshop, and you usually need space all round it as well. My smaller Clarke comes out on the patio when I need it. That one looks like quite a lump to move.
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On 31/05/2014 18:24, newshound wrote:

Almost all my wood cutting ends up on the patio too, in part because it makes much less of a mess....and if it rains I have a good excuse for a day off.....
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On 31/05/2014 10:41, GMM wrote:

When we moved & I lost my workshop, I bought one of these http://www.argos.co.uk/static/Product/partNumber/7153620.htm?CMPID=GS001&_ $ja=cgid:7915395047|tsid:41259|cid:162030167|lid:49365456287|nw:g|crid:27989225687|rnd:6964435681554896861|dvc:c|adp:1o2
and fitted an old circular saw to it. It's surprisingly accurate & sturdy.
--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

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On 31/05/2014 18:26, The Medway Handyman wrote:

I have to say my first thought was whether I could build something like that, although the first issue that came to mind was depth of cut, which would have to be a bit less than the saw itself and since my first 'target' is 50mm, I thought it might not do the job too well. Maybe a steel one would have less of an issue, as I was thinking of using 18mm ply for the table.
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On Saturday, May 31, 2014 8:03:22 PM UTC+1, GMM wrote:

001&_$ja=cgid:7915395047|tsid:41259|cid:162030167|lid:49365456287|nw:g|cr id:27989225687|rnd:6964435681554896861|dvc:c|adp:1o2

rdy.

Youtube has homemade table saws, many incorporating a handheld circ - a dec ent one of which can be had for tenners used. The saw clips into a recess i n the tabletop so you dont lose 18mm etc cut depth. Cheap to make and there are foldaway designs handy for smaller scale diyers - but of course it tak es time.
NT
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On 31/05/2014 10:41, GMM wrote:

ISTR someone recommending these are not too bad:
http://www.charnwood.net/shop/product/10-tables-saw-with-floorstand-and-side-extensions?cid "
The adjustment process for a full size cabinet saw is to first make sure the slots in the table are parallel to the blade, and then to make sure the fence is parallel to the slots. On some saws you can adjust the position of the table top to achieve the first step, in the portable contractors saws however you may be stuck with how it comes. The fences are usually adjustable to some extent. Upgrade fences can also help in some cases.

Check to see if the table bolts to the base, and if there are grub screws etc on the fence to allow adjustment of that.
It tends to be the fence that lets down the cheaper saws.
If working in restricted space, then the type without the fitted base are probably better - they can then be deployed on a workmate when required and cleared away when not. (the alternative is to go for a big one and make it a permanent feature in the middle of the workspace).
--
Cheers,

John.
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