Hi all, I have been thinking of getting a table saw as am just about to move
house and will have a garage this time around, shame but only single. Anyway
I am used to making quite a few things but have always been limited to
making them outdoors. Anybody have any comments on the Rexon BT2500A or
BTS10A or have just seen ELEKTRA TKHS315E/P on axminster tools. This one
seems to have a far more powerful motor. Any way looking for around the £300
mark so any other suggestions throw them into the pot. I am looking for
something of reasonable diy quality not full time use.
Many thanks for comments or suggestions
In my book, a tilting arbor not tilting table and a synchronous motor not a
brush motor (for quiet running) are essentials. More motor power is always
useful. Also ensure that when fitted with the maximum size blade, that the blade
can be fully lowered below the table surface (for cutting shallow grooves).
On Mon, 13 Oct 2003 21:51:51 +0100, Bob Minchin
Agreed. Equally for height adjust by moving the blade, not the table.
I'd also say that good guarding is important, which means a clear
plastic guard you can see through, and a riving knife that moves with
the blade. Have it quickly and easily removable if you want to cut
rebates a la Americaine.
Ear defenders are cheaper though. If you're shaving the budget, then
direct-drive and brushes are pretty much the ways things are. I don't
see much advantage to an induction motor unless it's also a belt
Up to a point Lord Copper. There aren't many underpowered saws
around, but there are some powerful ones that aren't big or rigid
enough to make use of it.
I used an Axminster BTS10PP for a few years and thought it an
excellent deal for the money. Then I bought some big cast iron.
The BTS10 falls down on fence rigidity. Last time I looked, there was
a B&Q 200-quid job that was identical, but a slightly better fence.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I've grown very fond of the Screwfix 2kW saw I bought a couple
of weeks ago.
Out of the box it's a bit pants, but after much shimming to get
everything lined up, and a new home made fence (what the hell
was that thing that came with it anyway??) it's turned out
Has many of the features just listed as essential - tilting
arbor, induction motor (but direct, not belt) and blade height
All in all, not bad for £160 and a couple of hours work.
My table saw is one of these multi function jobbies where the saw used is a
circular saw mounted under the table.
It all works fine but it is a pain setting the fence to be parallel to the
blade. I was thinking of either drawing lines on the table or maybe fitting
some sort of bracket to the fence so it slides along the sides of the table.
What have others done to make things easier to use?
On Tue, 21 Oct 2003 10:57:49 +0000 (UTC), "Sean Delere"
Not sure what your set up is but you could try setting adhesive tape
measures front and back of the table. Then you just set both ends of
the fence accordingly. (Actually the rear fence should toe out a tiny
amount to reduce the risk of the wood being cut being pinched between
the rear of the blade and the fence leading to kick back)
Even easier would be to mark the edge of the cut at the leading and
trailing edges of the table and then use a tape measure to set the
fence from this datum point.
Paul Mc Cann
There are measured tapes already along the edges of the table but it is not
easy to adjust the fence to as they are on the sides. I may try fixing tapes
to the table top as you suggest as it will make them easier to see.
Another good idea - thanks!
What I was actually thinking of was fixing a guide at 90 degrees to the
fence that would run along the side of the table. That way I would only have
to set the fence at one end and would know the other end was correct.
I hope that made sense.
Just to smooth my sensibilities a synchronous motor is not the same as
an induction motor. Both are brushless but a synchronous motor (as
its name implies) runs at a speed locked to the mains whereas an
induction motor is not locked to the mains frequency (though they tend
to run quite close to 'synchronous' speed with a small percentage of
'slip'). A synchronous motor is rarely used as motive power unless
the constant speed is required as its torque characteristics are not
very suitable for most applications.
The Elektra TKS315EP, or Dewalt do a similar saw as well as the Sheppach
It would probably be easier to build a bench around one which usually
means having a removable cover for the saw table.
Alternatively get one with a mobility kit and wheel it out of the way
when not in use. (Or put your own wheels on, as I did once.)
Paul Mc Cann
Then build a fold up bench of the main one at the right height and place
the saw on it. Then you can store it all underneath when not in use. Or
cut out a section of bench and lower it to the right level when the saw
is on it.
I have router table which sits on my workmate when it use. Like that it
is about at the height of the bottom of my ribs which is actually quite
comfortable to use (remembering safety glasses). If you aren't intending
to put large baulks through it or full size sheets that height would
work for a saw too.
So you could try just sitting it on the bench.
School of Life Sciences, University of Dundee, Scotland
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