Sticking Plasteboard to metal

[Kev]

I need to stick some p/b to metal but I think that pva and no more nails type adhesive only works on porous or fibrous materials. What is best for sticking p/b to a non-porous surface.

Kevin

[Lobster]

I would have thought that no-nails type stuff would work fine

David

[Kev]

No harm with trying but I thought that pva based glues were best on porous surfaces.

Kevin

[Andrew Gabriel]

I've seen plasterboard screws used as self-tappers into metal studwork, for which they seemed to work very well.

[Steve Firth]

If you want to use a glue, then EvoStick Nail and Seal is the best option since it sticks porous and non porous materials extremely well. It's not an acrylic like most of these products it's a polymer sealant usually used to seal underwater structures (e.g. keel to hull on sailing boats). It's tough and works well with good "grab" and little tendency to slip.

[Kev]

I'll look into this. Having taken down the ceiling and plaster in my

1930's semi I found a heavy steel lintel above the old window opening into an extension. This had been boxed in before but I could see why I couldn't apply p/b direct to the lintle. Bearing in mind this was a very heavy gauge channel section self tappers would have been a bit difficult but I must admit that I hadn't thought of using them.

Kevin

[Stuart]

Ah.....I guess no-one in answering was thinking of a steel lintel when you said metal ..

Stuart

[The Natural Philosopher]

I think no more nails will work, but car body filler certainly will, or any epoxy glue.

Plaster will if the metal is perforated :-)

[Weatherlawyer]

It's a real pisser when a clot gets half a dozen replies before he thinks to elucidate.

You have to put soldiers in the channels and a baton on the side of those wedges wide enough to stick past the steel and allow a batton to be fixed to that if needed to drop the level to the inside surface of the plasterboard.

It sounds complicated but is fairly straightforward if a bit of a pita. If you have the right sized wood handy the wedges can stick out past the steel. Then it's just a matter of dropping a wide enough batton to the depth of the other joists which you can do by running a straight edge through.

Never assume the steel is in level.

[Kev]

said metal ..

But why go to all that trouble if the lintlel is level then just to stick the plasterboard direct to the lintel. In fact the previous boxing was all over the place as is the boxing on the lintel in the kitchen. Of course if I did it myself then I could make the effort to make it square and level unlike the previous builders who just throught it up but thanks for the response anyway.

Kevin