Steel cladding roof insulation? -Was Corrugated roof + laser levels

It has been hard work, but the walls are almost there on the garage extension.
I've decided to put in an extra mid support 1/3 the way along the 15 foot span of the 5" x 2" roof beams, also of 5 x 2. Timber is on site and I've settled on using metal cladding roof which is due for delivery on Friday - hence the next question. The cladding was a little more expensive than corrugated plastic or the bitumen sheet, but it seems likely to be more long term robust.
I'm advised that condensation on the underside of the cladding might be a problem and to install some form of insulation to help prevent it. What is the best way to incorporate insulation and what material?
It is just a bit of a general purpose work shop area, so I'm trying to keep costs down.
Incidently I had the 15' x 8' concrete base delivered as a mixed on site delivery. I have nothing but the highest praise for the company who turned up on site, mixed it then barrowed it 100 feet up the drive to lay it, then even helped to level it on one of the hottest days in June with only the help of my grandson - due to the fact that they wanted to deliver three hours earlier than arranged, whilst I was still stuck at work. I got home and it was all done - they had even filled in an extra section intended as an overspill to be finished off with a hand mix.
They said they sometimes arrive on site to find their customer has expected them to be able to just lay concrete on top of grass with loose bricks holding the form work in place, so they were quite pleased with the fact that everything was laid on for their delivery.
Some months ago I mentioned I had got myself one of those cheap laser levels (19-99) which optically produces either an horizontal line, vertical line or both, with the head producing the line suspended like a plum bob.
Well it has proven to be one of the best gadgets I've ever bought. I first bought it part way through decorating - adding a what ever they are called (wooden horizontal trim part way up the wall?).
It has really come into its own building this garage extension. What I did was set a 3" x 3" wooden post solidly in the ground to one side of the intended base- before I even started digging out the base, on which I could site the levels head (no use of tripod). I then made up a 3 x 1 stick marked out with how far to dig, top of concrete for the form work etc.. Using laser and stick to hammer in 12" long pegs over all of the area to be dug , such that their bottom depth was the to be dug depth. Dig until the peg falls over and you are there. Perfectly flat and level undisturbed ground and no need to shift more soil than you absolutely have to.
Form work was level throughout to just a few millimetres. Much more accurate than I had managed twenty years ago with a water level and much simpler. The only problem was having to wait until dusk to use it. Its now providing accurate levels on its adjustable height tripod for the walls.
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Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
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We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Harry Bloomfield

You can get ready-insulated steel cladding. It has an inch or two of foam applied to the underside at the factory and is the best way of preventing condensation on this type of building. You'll find it nearly impossible to prevent water vapour getting to the steel otherwise.
Shop around and look for used sheets in 'Farmers Weekly' and the like or call up industrial building suppliers and erectors as a lot of that stuff is surplus at end of jobs and if you only need enough for a garage roof it wouldn't cost much for seconds.
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Dave

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"Harry Bloomfield" wrote:

How about polystyrene insulation, 8' long x 4' wide x 1" deep sheets, as per http://www.killifish.f9.co.uk/Killifish/Killifish%20Website/Fish_House_Construction/Assembly.htm fixed with No More Nails or other suitable adhesive. Good luck.
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