I've replaced some rafters with green oak ones, i'm told i need 6 inch stainless steel nails to attach them to the purlins but cant find any in Hereford or on internet.
Any ideas where to get them?
These ones look too thin, or are they?
I've replaced some rafters with green oak ones, i'm told i need 6 inch stainless steel nails to attach them to the purlins but cant find any in Hereford or on internet.
Any ideas where to get them?
These ones look too thin, or are they?
In message , george - dicegeorge writes
I've no idea whether they are suitable, but am intrigued by the way 50 appear to cost £7.50 but 100 cost £23. What have I missed?
In message , Bill writes
10 = £2 (20p each) 20 = £4 (20p each) 30 = £6.50 (21,666p each) 50 = £7.50 (15p each) 100 = £23 (23p each) Obviously, it's best to buy packs of 50. [Possibly it's because of postal weight price breaks?]
You can get SS coach screws. Use them istead.
Green oak is bad news. It warps, splits and twists unlees well restrained. Also not very strong.
It was only used years ago because they had nothing else and it was rot resistant.
I was told that green oak is better than tanalised as thats what the other rafters were made of. And to use nails not screws so that it can be taken apart later if needed. [g]
I thought that's why things built of green oak used proper pegged timber joints, so it could move.
Damn sight easier to undo screws than pull nails, especially big 6" jobbies. Anyway see above shouldn't be a metal nail in sight, joints and pegs.
Not if the screws are Turbo Ultra A2 stainless. Using these in Oak I found they snap off if you attempt to undo.
Counter boring or 8mm hex head might be OK. Driving a soft 6" nail in any sort of Oak is going to be a recipe for bad language:-)
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Not if they are annular ring nails, like the ones you linked to. They are designed to be almost impossible to pull out of timber.
Green oak is very soft. It is hard as iron almost when dried out. You have to drill pilot holes even for nails in old oak.
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