Special pattress box

[Vet Tech]

As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall book case. I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case. Have looked at dry wall boxes but don=92t consider these to be durable or totally secure if knocked from behind.

Is there something out there which has 4 lugs with screw holes that enable you to screw it on - preferably in metal but strong plastic without any knock-outs would also be suitable.

Any suggestions?

VT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd say a surface mount metal box would be the neatest way - scroll down to the bottom of the page.

They are similar to a normal steel backing box but have rounded 'corners' so neater. If you carefully do the cutout into the wood so it pushes in from the outside and is a tight fit it could be secured to the wood with some Evostick Serious glue - or if the wood is thick enough a couple of small screws into it.

You could use a compression gland to give a neater cable exit from the box than a grommet - something like this:-

VT

[Vet Tech]

That's certainly one work-around and I guess if it wasnt a tight fit initially, I could cut 4 short lengths of 10mmx 10mm aluminium angle and glue these one on each side to the box at the back. Then it would be fixed real good. Thanks. VT

[TheScullster]

"Vet Tech" wrote

As part the process of refurbishing a room, it has become decidedly beneficial to rehang the entrance door so that the hinges are moved to the LHS instead of the RHS. But this would mean that the existing light switch would then be behind the door when open. The only way around this is to move the switch and mount it on the side of a tall book case. I want the switch to be flush when viewed as one enters the room and so I am looking for some kind of sunken pattress box or enclosure that can be screwed on to the inner side of the book case. Have looked at dry wall boxes but don?t consider these to be durable or totally secure if knocked from behind.

Is there something out there which has 4 lugs with screw holes that enable you to screw it on - preferably in metal but strong plastic without any knock-outs would also be suitable.

Any suggestions?

VT

Can you cut a square hole in the book case for a standard metal back box, then fasten a wood back-plate over the hole on the inside of the bookcase? That way you can screw the metal back box to the inner wooden plate to get a flush fit of the switch face plate . If you pack the wood back-plate off the cupboard carcase a bit: a) You can adjust the depth of back box it will accommodate AND b) You could run trunking down inside the cupboard straight into a knock-out in the metal back box. I-Y-S-W-I-M!!!

Somewhat depends on how much you are prepared to "adjust" the inside of the book case.

Phil

[Vet Tech]

I don't know how thick the side of the book case is yet but I guess the best end result will be dependent on finding the shallowest switch and getting this into the shallowest back box. Most of the metal boxes I've seen are 50 - 60mm deep.

VT

[Bob Eager]

I was wondering if an architrave switch would be neater...

[Dave Plowman (News)]

From the neatness point of view I'd spend the time on making the hole in the wood properly to give a good fit. If you've got a scanner - scan the box for a template, print it out and glue to the outside of the bookcase. Drill four holes of the correct diameter in the corners. Used a jigsaw etc to cut out the rest leaving some waste - then file down to the line. Those boxes have a slight rim so you'd need to relieve the front of the hole for a perfect flush fit. Then glue in place. Shouldn't take any longer than cutting and drilling ally angle - and should look very much better.

[Vet Tech]

Bob,

There might just be enough room for that. I did a quick search on Ebay and found a two gang (double- decker style) architrave switch with a width of 35mm. At =A35 it's worth a try,

VT

[Mike Clarke]

How about a 16mm box? E.g.

or if the long URL causes a line wrap problem. That should fit in the thickness of most book cases. You'll probably need to add a small wood panel inside the book case to hide the back of the box.

[F]

I'm not sure if I'm missing the point but could you use a combination of a plastic pattress and extra long switch to box screws?

Cut the hole in the bookcase only just wide enough to let the sticky out bits on the switch through and then use the long screws to trap the bookcase between the box on one side and the switch on the other side, ie the bookcase is the jam in the box/switch sandwich.

Some careful additional insulating may be needed.

IYSWIM

[Vet Tech]

OK, ISWYM. If say the side of the book case is greater than 16mm thick (minimum switch depth?) , I could use your idea but dispense with the box and get a flat plate behind and trap the book case between the switch and the plate using long screws (bolts) and nuts behind the plate. That way it would be virtually flush inside apart from the nuts. VT

[Dave Plowman (News)]

[snip]

The switch should be encased in a non combustible material. Which in general means a backing box.

[Graham.]

I wouldn't assume that the printed scanned image will be 1:1 with original. Photocopies often aren't actual size either. What's wrong with using the box itself as a template?

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Sorry - I use an ancient Acorn machine and it is with that. Yet another reason to only use the PC for as little as possible.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Well, it's the way I'd do it. Scan and transfer into Draw. Draw round the outline. Add the centres for the holes which will produce the radius for the corners - and at the same time note what drill size needed. Print out and glue to the work. It's a quick way of producing a template for this sort of thing if you wish to make an accurate job.

[Toby]

Or install a pull cord on the ceiling :-)

Toby...

[Geo]

I've seen all the suggestions made, but was there not a post some time ago about fitting sockets to a kitchen unit - where the opinion was that you should not fit to furniture? (I admit to having fitted a nice stainless light switch to our mahogany veneered headboard but it was using flex to a two pin socket on the wall.)

[Owain]

Owain

[Geo]

The bed was class II ...

[dennis]

One hand on the ch pipe and one on the switch plate.