Hi, I have some "Latexplan" two part floor screed, I purchased last year, I have used a small quantity to fill in a dip in a concrete floor which I am preparing for tiling, and I also have some more filling in to do, but the screed does not seem to dry as hard as I thought, if I press hard with my thumbnail I can make a mark in it or easly scrape it up with a metal wallpaper scraper, should screed dry harder that this? or has it gone off in the bag over winter?
Soft floor screed
May 24, 2011
10 Replies
How long ago did you do the job?
You may find a big improvement over the next few days.
Its been a few weeks now since I did the job, but the screed has not set any harder, than it was after about a day.
How deep was the dip? Some self levelling latex screeds are only good for 2-3mm. What does the tin say?
Malcolm
It said can be used from featheredge to 10 mm, the dip I filled was about 3mm .
Not good.
I'd be inclined to either chop it off, or you could try my favourite dodgey screed rejuvinator: soak it in SBR:water 1:1 until it stops absorbing any more.
That will (assuming it is porous enough to take it in to the full thickness) set it solid. Don't bother with PVA - it won't penetrte well enough.
Even if you chop it off, I'd prime the area in SBR to stabilise it, then I'd consider a decent leveller - F Ball Stopgap 300 which is marvellous. Google search this group for more details.
Has the existing stuff bonded properly to the concrete?
The screed is stuck well to the concrete floor, but just seems very soft. I can scrape it out and redo it, does it matter if I have a one part or two part screed? it's for laying vinyl floor tiles.
Oh - thought you meant ceramic/stone...
That's easy. SBR and don't worry about it.
Ok thanks,
SBR is sold in some of the bigger B&Qs now - about £10-12 per 5l IIRC.
Builders merchants have it and may shelf-price it at £40 (I'm not joking). Beat them down to £15-20...
Anyway, couple of extra facts:
It will stick to anything when dry[1] so don't spill it on good finised flooring. If you do, wash up immediately (not 5 minutes later) with plenty of water.
[1] I still have a metal bowl used to mix it that has a film. Only way to remove film is wire wool, white spirit and elbow grease.It's not volatile or particularly stinky - though it does have a curious unique odour.
You'll tell immediately if it's absorbing into the levelling compound - just keep brushing it on (pour if you like and brush out) until it's saturated. It is vey penetrating.
Leave for 2-4 days until it's dried out before tiling.
One big advantage - self adhesive tiles will love its slightly tacky and shiney surface (for SA tiles, I'd probably prime the whole floor with it). Ditto if you are using spray glue to fix.
For regular rubbery gloop-glue, I wouldn't bother because that sticks to everything anyway.
I already have some SBR so I will have a go at this today, I'm using "pressure sensitive acrylic adhesive" for the tiles, thanks for your advice.
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