I laid a path using tanalised decking this year and now, with the first
frost of autumn, it has turned into a slide.
Any suggestions, please, for a slip-reducing coating that won't detract from
the natural look of the wood too much?
Well, if I'm going to rule out winter, and we're just into autumn and it's
already starting to be a problem, I suppose I'd better pray for a mild
The chicken wire surface suggestion is a good idea, apart from the look of
"posting from Sutton, winner of The English And Welsh Village Of The Year
I think as this is freshly-laid planking (and "yes, I did put the ridged
side uppermost!") it is the frost that is making it slippy.
I had an idea to paint it with polyurethane into which some sharp sand had
been stirred, but thought I'd check here first to see whether there is a
"Let's be grateful for our Fridays and face our Mondays with good humour."
On Mon, 27 Oct 2003 13:59:53 -0000, "Brian Watson"
Sharp sand isn't really sharp enough. Silicon carbide grit blasting
media is much better. You only need a small quantity, so try
I've got a gallon can of USAF wing-walk compound - perfect LandRover
bumper paint. It's non slip to stand on, and it's chip proof.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Inspires a good thought, though.
The sort of varnish used on decks (as opposed to decking) must contain
something to ensure it is anti-slip.
I'll try a chandlers.
"Stuck down a hole, in the fog, in the middle of the night, with an owl."
And they'll gladly open up your wallet ;-) At Robbins in Bristol, a
sometimes-snotty supplier of wood for marine types and general joinery,
they sell "ordinary" yacht varnich (Rustins) for about 9quid a tin, and
SuperUltraMagicBoiledByVestalsAndAlignedToLeyLines stuff from Holland
- Epiphanes - at maybe 16-17 quid the tin (which instructions to apply
5 or more coats leaving 24h between each, or some such). In the Epiphanes
range they'll also sell you the same SuperUltra... with little polystyrene
beads mixed in, and little pots of surprisingly-small-but-effective
poly beads, for a cool 3.50 per pot, one pot adequate for 750ml: volume
of pot I'd guesstimate at 40-50 ml.
Wanting a non-slip coat for the cat-shelter-and-skateboard ramp I built
a few weeks back (I thought I was making a wheelchair/limited-mobility
access ramp, but the cats and the lad soon taught me the real purpose
of my efforts) I did one coat of the Rustins-with-added-granules. Quite
late in the evening. A bit of an error, that: under artificial light
I brushed the gritted varnish out too thin, and discovered the next day
that the grit-beads were patchy (stayed where first laid down, didn't
want to travel with the brush). Back for another pot of somewhat
overpriced beads, on with another coat breaking all the "several thin
coats better than one overthick one". Result: functionally excellent -
it really is nice and grippy now, though I don't know how well it'll
wear; aesthetically so-so, as laying it on thick meant there are some
runs I can't be arsed to sand down and recoat (as sanding down would
b'r up the non-slipness).
Another time, I'd go for my original intention of using fine ("sharp")
sand, or Andy D's suggestion of carborundum powder, and lay on a coat
thicker than "normal" varnish but not quite as generous as my second
coat. For a larger area of decking, a cost-effective additive would
be all the more important. Or you can go cheapie and put down bits
of rubber underlay during the winter months!
Stefek Zaba wrote
| > I'll try a chandlers.
| And they'll gladly open up your wallet ;-) At Robbins in Bristol,
| a sometimes-snotty supplier of wood for marine types and general
| joinery, they sell "ordinary" yacht varnich (Rustins) for about
| 9quid a tin, and SuperUltraMagicBoiledByVestalsAndAlignedToLeyLines
| stuff from Holland - Epiphanes - at maybe 16-17 quid the tin ...
With what cable should I wire my in-boat hi-fi system?
One final thought, after doing yesterday's washing-up
*insert tongue in cheek*
For the natural look, you could mix up some milk and
Alpen, then spread it over the deck liberally. Once dry,
it will certainly be non-slip and any amount of cold water
will do nothing to remove it. Could this be the answer?
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