Apart from gas pipes, does the team think it's necessary to sleeve a) copper b) pe-x pipe where it passes through internal brick walls?
If the purpose is primarily corrosion protection, would e.g. a couple of turns of duct tape suffice?
Or have I got to buy another whopping masonry drill?
With copper you may want to protect it from corrosion if the wall contains cement... wrapping with Denso tape would do it. With plastic there is no specific requirement, although you may want to protect the end of the pipe from scratches so as to ensure a good seal in pushfit fitting.
I sleaved all pipework through walls when I installed central heating (all in copper). It also allows for expansion movement.
Denso tape is the stuff to use, if you do it that way.
Or hire one.
My understanding is that the main reason for it is to allow free expansion and contraction of the pipe, rather than to prevent corrosion - helps avoid clicking noises and rubbing of the pipe.
Since professional heating installers seem to do it, and are not given to wasting time and materials, I've always assumed it was a good thing to do.
The first heating system I installed, many years ago, in the days before "sheds", came from a company who suppied all the bits as a kit with instructions and they certainly said all pipe runs through walls should be sleeved, so I guess it's regared as "good practice"
Plastics in general have higher expansion coefficients than copper so I assume its more important for PE, though I've never used it. Certainly I wouldn't want PE pipe rubbing on anything hard - it's a relatively soft material.
Personally I'd buy another whopping masonry drill - what's the point of starting a job which doesn't need a new tool?
Hep20 excellent stuff for sleeving copper pipe. It's not messy. It's easy to cut to the right length.
Anyone know the life expectancy of a copper pipe if it hasn't been sleeved? We got central heating installed last year and one of the rooms had a laminated floor and rather than lift the flooring to get access below it the plumbers drilled from one room diagonally under the floor, through the wall (beneath the floor) and into the floor space of the adjoining room. From what I can see no sleeving has been used. I'm sure I read on here it would take about 20 years to break down the copper is this right?
Steven.
In message , Steven Campbell writes
I think you would have read here that it depends entirely on conditions
dampness, quality of pipe, chemical makeup of the mortar / concrete it's going through
I tended to use whatever was to hand. 20mm plastic conduit works will with 15mm copper tube. You can bend the two together in a 22mm pipe bender too. 40mm waste pipe fitted over 28mm copper tube quite well (can't recall if it was pushfit or solvent weld waste pipe, and they aren't the same size). I have also used the next size up copper pipe on occasion.
Running 15mm pipe through a wall is best achieved by drilling a hole with a good clearance around the pipe. A copper pipe through a tight fit hole is asking for problems on two counts: Firstly, you have little or no wiggle room when trying to fit to the radiator valves. Secondly, any acidity or dampness will cause the pipe to turn green and erode. Best bet? Generous hole, cover bit through wall with tape. After fitting to radiator cover the exposed bit around the hole in the plaster with a 15mm cover cap as used when running pipes through a carpet.
The original posters may have given up reading the replies 13 years ago.
Yes I bet those who put gas pipes through walls in that Grenfell tower block were not thinking straight when they did it either. Brian
True, but it is balls since you need to sleeve the hole properly to prevent mechanical and chemical issues. Push-fit cistern overflow pipe works well IME.
nor did the builder of tehBBC White City office building. They put water pipes that way and one decided to leak all over the electrical supply two floors down.
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