Skimming Brake drums

Have you checked the price of new drums? Might be easier than finding anyone to skim drums these days.

Tim

There is often very little reserve material on a modern brake drum. When I have had a lip - usually of rust - I mount the drum on the car back to front and then manually rotate the drum whilst holding an angle grinder against the offending lip. A bit of care and it soon done and no risk of run-out as the braking surfaces are untouched.

Yep. I think new drums are around the £60 a pair for most cars and that hardly covers getting them on a lathe.

Yes .... a lot of money .. as its drums & studs & front & rear roller bearings & seals

The lip is on the outer face, i.e at bearing end and due to only being

That would be my suggestion too. Never done it with drums, but have for brake disks that are still comfortably in "spec" (running on idle in first gear).

I have found a neighbour with access to a lathe ... but it does not have a 4 jaw chuck .. only a 3 jaw .... trying to come up with a way to mount it, and keep it concentric with centre bore.

These are not anywhere near £60 a pair ... but in region of £256 a pair ... so to replace all 4 and add in bearing & seals would be around £550

So you can see why I would like to skim rather than replace.

Watched a TV programme recently where a guy made an AK47 in a tin shed in Afghanistan, on a foot powered lathe, but getting engineering work in UK ... is not easy. Progress eh ?

You can't BTDTGTTS.

If its only the lip at the open end of the drum that needs removing then you should be able to get away with using a grinding wheel in a power drill. As long as you don't touch the existing area contacted by the shoes you shouldn't have any issues.

Mike

turn up a mandrill.

I have no idea what that means

My neighbour is going to see if he can come up with a way to mount it .... the issue is its obviously going to be heavy - and needs a solid fixing.

He is thinking of the way they mount large pipes to be turned .. using a pipe centre.

No it's a lip at the back (closed) end of the drum ... don't see a way of getting in there with angle grinder. OK could buy a die grinder and flexible shaft .. but result is not going to be accurate or concentric.

What I need is some back street engineering shop who like these as cash jobs for the boys .... that was way it used to be .... maybe they have all gone.

Been There, Done That, Got The T Shirt.

Weve got Rod and harry already.

Or did you mean 'mandrel' or possibly 'mandril'....???

Had a similar ptoblem with a Mk1 Mini in th elate 60s. Found a local workshop who skimmed the drums AND provided a set of shimmed shoes. No problems. I woiuld suggest that if you skim the drums you see if it is nscessary th shim a set of shoes as well (in my case the linings were rivited, not bonded)

Malcolm

Normally not a problem, use the central hole. Assuming normal chuck jaws.Altenatively, reverse the chuck jaws and use outside of drum. A few shims may be necessary.

Use the hub?

Three jaw with shims unless its an independent one.

Maybe one of those 1" or slightly bigger stones in a drill. I would have though that could produce adequate accuracy, but I may be wrong.

I don't think I'd be using first gear, you need a bit of speed to ensure a cut or grind isn't out of round.

NT