SilverCrest remote switching of power sockets problem?

[Mike Halmarack]

Has anyone else bought one of these kits and found a similar problem to this?: One of the plug in units (one of four) has taken to switching on ok and it seems to switch off according to the green light on the unit, which goes off but the appliances connected to the unit remain on. I've found this kit enormously helpful with the multiple devices around the house when it comes time to shut down at night.

If these units are going to start failing so soon as some SilverCrest kit has been found to do, Is there a more reliable brand?

[Tim+]

Sounds like the relay contacts are stuck. Sometimes a bit of “percussive maintenance” will free the contacts.

Reliability wise, I think they’re as good as any other cheap radio switch. Never had a problem with mine.

Tim

[me9]

i HAD SOME FROM aLDI OR lIDL, may have been Silvercrest, whuch exhibited teh same problem. A whack with a stick fixed them for a short while, but I replaced them eventually. It's probably just faulty relays, but I haven't had time ti investigate that, probably the relays are nearly as expensive as the complete product.

[Mike Halmarack]

I patted the table leg with the thing but it still won't co-operate.

[Tim+]

“Patted”? Give it some welly! Try in different directions too.

Tim

[charles]

Could be they are being used for a load greater they can cope with - depite what is advertised.

[Mike Halmarack]

Sure enough welly won the day. Ta muchly.

[nib]

I've found with a couple of types of remote switch that they don't last long before the contacts weld when switching inductive things or things with a high inrush, such as PCs. Mine are lasting for ever switching 1 kW heating but only a few months on a benchload of electronics.

nib

[me9]

Mine failed feeding a PC. The others were ok until they were used to feed the PC. I used to whack the failing one hard with a length of plastic conduit kept handy for teh job.

[Paul]

Exactly. The load type did this.

Usually the documentation warns of "inductive loads" and "can't switch inductive loads with this unit".

You can make automation controllers which can switch any load within your household, but the relay will be a lot bigger. A relay with 40 amp rated contacts, would be sufficient to switch a PC ATX supply. As the inrush current is on the order of 40A to 80A or so (for two mains cycles). You can tell by the way the incandescent lights flicker, what kind of inrush a PC has got.

When Anandtech was reviewing a certain brand new PC ATX supply, (1000W or so) the unit kept tripping the lab breaker, every time it was plugged in. It's actually possible for inrush to trip a breaker, which I would not have guessed would happen. The I-squared-T should not be big enough to do that. That would be an example of something you might not even want to switch with your

40 ampere relay contacts.

Paul

[Mike Halmarack]

In fact it now works so well that the control button B now switch on other areas such as A. And A now switches B on and off too. Whack-a -Mole or in the bin?

It was very useful for a week or two.

[RJH]

Maybe take it back if less than 3 years old? I've found them pretty helpful even without a receipt.

FYI I've got some wireless plug/sockets - find them pretty good, monitor consumption, work away from home. But you'd need a smart phone to operate them.

[Mike Halmarack]

Thanks for the info. I do have a smart phone and would be interested in such kit.

[Mike Halmarack]

I'm almost convinced that the walking, bending and stretching involved in turning my devices off and on manually is the less troublesome method. After all, I was just trying to impress my wife with my hi tech nous. Now she just thinks I'm a compulsive shopper of cheap junk.

[Mike Halmarack]

In this thread some have mentioned problems with high computer demands particularly. My PC and laptop are being handled easily by the gadgets in question. The unit controlling an electric radiator has been the first to go wonky though.

[Tim+]

Few of these devices were ever designed to be used near their current rating limit continuously. How powerful is your radiator?

Tim

[Mike Halmarack]

Total power consumption 2400 W input 220 to 240

50Hz

[RJH]

The ones I've got are Teckin SP23. Smart phone software actually works very well, with some useful features - scheduling, consumption real time and history, no hub needed, voice control (via alexa etc), and remote switching over wifi (which has some privacy issues, I'd guess, as there must be a central 'cloud' somewhere). I've had them about 5 years. Their consumption seems to be very low - maybe 1W or so.

The only real issue is that they don't fit UK switched sockets very well - plugging them in forced the switch on. I'd hope the designer feels suitably ashamed :-)

[Tim+]

I think 2.4kW continuous through a small device rated at 3kW max is pushing your luck.

Tim

[Mike Halmarack]

Yes, all the rest are working fine, so not such a big loss.