Seeking shed plans for inaccessible location

You can get matching foam rubber strips that are designed to close off the corrugated roofing.

Reply to
John Rumm
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If the frame is made from x inches square timber, what size of coach bolt can be used? I'm thinking x = 2, but I'm not sure.

Reply to
Frederick Williams

Sliding may be impractical: I am shall be working on my own and I am not strong.

Sliding may be impossible: a bought shed will be susceptible to damp too, and I may wish it to go up on to bricks (or blocks of some kind).

Reply to
Frederick Williams

Um... the shed will be taller than the fences, so the roof and the parts of the walls immediately below it will be accessible from the other sides of the fences. (Or even from the roof itself, if it's strong enough.)

How long does roofing felt last? And if the answer is 'not long enough', what can I use in its place?

Reply to
Frederick Williams

use levers and wedges etc.

yup. I am thinking 'shed' too and a brick plinth THEN DPC THEN timber - and pantiles on the roof, seems to be where its at :).

I am sick of replacing felt..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Cheap stuff 5 years, premium stuff 15 years.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Thanks for all replies so far. For a 6 foot square shed of similar height, which of 2" x 2" and 2" x 4" timber should I use for the frame?

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suggests either, is

2" x 2" considerably cheaper?

For bracing, I am considering diagonal timbers on either

(i) three walls. The unbraced wall will be that with the door in it. The bracing timber will be 2" x 2" or 2" x 4" as for the frame, I assume. There will be no widow because the roof will be transparent corrugated plastic (sounds tacky, but never mind); or

(ii) two walls. The unbraced walls will be those with the door and windows in them (wooden roof in this case).

Will (ii) be ok?

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says two walls braced is not enough. Are there fishplates (probably not called that, but I hope you'll know what I have in mind) that I can screw to the corners of the frames to stiffen the walls which have the window and door in them?

Second thought: only now, as I have been typing, has it occurred to me that the widow and door could go in the same wall.

Reply to
Frederick Williams

It is a well-known fact that the ancient Egyptians had the help of alien spacemen when they needed to move sheds.

Reply to
Frederick Williams

The felt on our shed has lost most of it's gravel and has couple of holes after rather too close contact with scaffolding. It could probably do with being replaced. That felt was put on after this:

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"Marley Shed Roof Felt" so not particulary thick and we are rather exposed to the weather and the shed gets full sun (when it's out).

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

I think you may be over estimating the quantity of wood used in commercial sheds. Getting them to not blow away is usually more of a problem.

Reply to
John Rumm

Depends on what you call roofing felt... the thin skimpy stuff called shed felt, nailed on in a single layer - 5 years tops, probably less.

A good quality "torch-on" modified (rubberised) bitumen with 2mm under felt, and 4mm mineral finish cap sheet, at least 20 years.

Reply to
John Rumm

Yes, I had forgotten that!

Reply to
Frederick Williams

The floor boards will be 6' long. Do they need support in the middle?

Reply to
Frederick Williams

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