Secret fixing removable board to wall.

Hi,

I have a board which I need to secure to a wall which needs to be firm whe n fixed but easily removable, The fixings can't be seen from the front. Ideally the board would be removed at the same height has hung (i.e. doesn' t need to be lifted) although a small lift could be possible (approx 15mm).

In a perfect scenario it would be some sort of click latch where you click it into place and then push in to click it out again but the only ones I ha ve seen expect the base piece to be at 90 degrees to the board which wouldn t work on a wall.

Anyone have any ideas?

thanks

Lee.

Reply to
leenowell
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15mm is adequate for lift off plates available fron Toolstation.
Reply to
Capitol

A French cleat is the obvious answer, but the lift would prolly be too much.

These any good?

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Reply to
David Lang

Reply to
Capitol

when fixed but easily removable, The fixings can't be seen from the fron t. Ideally the board would be removed at the same height has hung (i.e. do esn't need to be lifted) although a small lift could be possible (approx 15 mm).

ick it into place and then push in to click it out again but the only ones I have seen expect the base piece to be at 90 degrees to the board which wo uldnt work on a wall.

Thanks Dave. Any idea how these fixings work? They look like they have so me sort of clip at the front? Mine would need to be attached to the back o f the board?

French cleat may be the answer provided I could cut a shallow enough groove .

Reply to
leenowell

Thanks Capitol - yeah I had considered these myself. Only issue I thought of (besides the need to lift it up) was that there would be screws sticking out of the board which whilst not a big deal thought there may be a neater option

Reply to
leenowell

Is this sort of thing any good?

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I've got a few free samples but haven't used them in anger.

In the past, I secured a head-board to a wall invisibly by sinking some plates with keyhole slots into the back. This just needed some accurately positioned screws in the wall with enough sticking out to engage with the keyholes. The whole thing was then slid vertically downwards - by not more than 10mm - to secure it.

Reply to
Roger Mills

Hi Lee,

It depends how much load the fixings need to cope with.

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I have used those to secure a plinth in front of an open washing machine/dishwasher bay.

You need to buy some keepers too (essentially washers).

If you surface mount the magnet and drill a flat bottomed hole (spade bit or better a forstner bit and mount the keeper at the base of the hole, then you get excellent lateral support as the magnet's body acts as a dowel. If you drill the hole a tad over depth (mm or two) and leave the screw holding the keepr slightly loose, you can tweak so it grabs just right without any play on the board being hung.

They are damn powerful magnets - just have to choose how big/how many.

Reply to
Tim Watts

I have a board which I need to secure to a wall which needs to be firm when fixed but easily removable, The fixings can't be seen from the front. Ideally the board would be removed at the same height has hung (i.e. doesn't need to be lifted) although a small lift could be possible (approx 15mm).

In a perfect scenario it would be some sort of click latch where you click it into place and then push in to click it out again but the only ones I have seen expect the base piece to be at 90 degrees to the board which wouldnt work on a wall.

Anyone have any ideas?

thanks

Lee.

....

You dont say how heavy or how thick this board is.

However the easiest way is to probably to use a couple of mirror plates

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These were the first I came across screwfix 32 x 32.

But not in the usual way.

Screw two, to two say 40mm x 40mm pieces of 6mm ply. Then cut out the material behind the holes in the plates Or alternatively offer them up to the ply, mark out the the holes, cut them out and then screw them on.

Glue both mounted plates to the back of the mirror, with the big end of the holes at the bottom, making

100% certain that the tops of the holes in both plates are exactly the same distance from the top of the frame. And that the slots are both at 90%

Slotted plates work because while the head of the nail or screw can fit in the big hole at the bottom, when the plate slides down its trapped.

So basically you need to nail or screw two screws or nails with the appropriate size heads into the wall to take the frame. Using a level to make sure the two holes are er

100% level, and the correct distance apart obviously. You only need a certain amount of nail or screw head protruding for as flush a fit as possible but its best to check the fit as you go, so you can make any necessary sideways adjustments before finally screwing or hammering home.

If the frame is thick enough it would be possible to create the cavity in the frame itself, and dispense with the pieces of ply. Allowing a totally flush fit with the wall.

Then when the large holes at the bottom of the mirror plates are offered up to the nail or screwheads in the wall, they will fit into the cavity and the frame can be lowered down. With the reverse action to remove.

The lift in this case would be about 10mm max.

michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams

Hi Tim

A very interesting idea which depending on the length of the magnets I thin k would work. Were you suggesting to use the cylinder shaped ones? - when I clicked on the link it gave me a page of different types.

In the original post I described it as a board to make the question a bit s impler.... In reality, I have made a panel out of t&g cedar (18mm) mounted on a timber frame (around 35mm thick). Whilst I don't think it makes a diff erence to the suggestions so far but thought I should clarify in case.

Weight of the panel is around 5kg (probably less).

Thanks

Lee.

Reply to
leenowell

Thanks Michael

If I understand your suggestion correctly, do you mean to essentially fix the plate onto the board and then have the screw protruding from the wall?

Thanks

Lee.

Reply to
leenowell

Thanks Michael

If I understand your suggestion correctly, do you mean to essentially fix the plate onto the board and then have the screw protruding from the wall?

Thanks

Lee.

Reply to
leenowell

Thanks Michael

If I understand your suggestion correctly, do you mean to essentially fix the plate onto the board and then have the screw protruding from the wall?

Thanks

Lee.

Reply to
leenowell

Yes.

michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams

Yes - the cylinder shaped ones with countersunk screw holes :)

That would be OK - but I'd choose extra or bigger magnets for a job like that.

If the panel is high up, the risk of it falling is bad, but if it is a floor level the risk is low.

Reply to
Tim Watts

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They appear to be only available at 90% degrees, as the OP has already found with the others of that type that he's seen.

Looking at the illustration it's hard to see where the "no visible fixing" bit comes in.

michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams

I am planning to do similar ie a false wall inside a cupboard (approx metre sq) I will be attaching elec components when I can get them to simulate an electrical panel board. I have so far bought those heavy duty cupboard door magnetic catches (5kg) Not in use yet but hoping they will be strong enough to hold the panel in place.

Reply to
ss

I have a _large_ framed mirror hung in my bathroom with 6 off Command picture strips. They are like heavy duty velco. The large ones claim holding for a 7Kg frame. I placed the ones I used in the corners and half way along the longest sides.

Neodymium magnets glued to the wall and metal plates on the back of the board

Reply to
alan_m

I have a 'false' wall in my airing cupboard which hides pipes etc. The wall is held in place with magnets.

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(example of random ebay seller of item)

Reply to
alan_m

Bingo !

Well spotted.

That looks just the ticket, in every respect.

And certainly beats my idea of faffing around with mirror plates.

But then, that was from back in days of the Brass Age.

michael adams

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Reply to
michael adams

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