I'm about to build a small partition, I'm going to use screws for everything. Obviously I can just use ordinary screws in the wood to wood joints but to avoid having to buy special plasterboard screws can I get away with using stainless screws to hold the plasterboard to the wood? I have stainless screws 'in stock'.
No, you need plasterboard screws. Other types have the wrong head shape and make a mess of the PB. If youre skimming it you could cover the mess with a thick skim, but the fixing points are still very weakened, so dont. PB screws are very cheap from screwfix, toolsatan etc.
NT
Nope! Buy the proper plasterboard screws, they make life *so* much easier, and they are cheap.
They have a sharp point and coarse thread so they drive fast. They will also stick to a magnetic bit holder. Handy when doing a job that benefits from three hands!
They are very slim so they don't split or spall the edge of the plasterboard
They have a bugle shaped head that is designed to sit just below the finished surface but without tearing the paper. Giving good hold and finish.
They have a phillips head, which when used with the right shrouded bit in a power driver will set the screw depth precisely every time with no manual intervention. (just whiz it in until the driver disengages from the head)
They are passivated so as not to corrode or otherwise mark your finish / skim / filler etc.
No, the reason is down to plasterboard being junk. It is nothing like solid plaster (like the french partition wall stuff).
A plasterboard screw is extremely sharp, very small cross-section, with a bugle head that is low profile. The head spreads the load across the plasterboard - even with them it is not uncommon to crush or crack a board if the battens are not all shimmed correctly.
If you want just a few (10, 50, 100, 250) then check on Ebay. Just make sure you get the right length. No need to buy a huge pack, check the seller is sending 1st-class tho if in a hurry.
OK, I take the point everyone, plasterboard screws it is. I can't find them listed on Screwfix's web site though - I've found Drywall Screws but they don't really sound like the descriptions given here. ... but on further investigation Drywall Screws would seem to be it. They don't look much different to my Turbo Ultra screws in shape!
Drywall/plasterboard are interchangeable terms so you're fine with that.
When you get them you'll see, drywall screws are super smooth under the head to avoid tearing the paper surface of drywall(TM) and are shaped like a bugle to compress the underlying gypsum the right way to get the strongest fix possible.
In contrast, turbogolds don't have the head shape and have ribbed undersides on the heads to deliberately rip the surface of the wood to sink the countersink.
Drive a 1000 and you'll see the difference no problem. Currently about a fiver/1000 at toolstation (although I did use 42mm at 7quid/1000) so it's not worth pissing about. If in doubt, try it with the turbos on a piece of scrap and watch it tear the paper on a significant few when pulling below the surface.
eg:
In fact, how does "Twin thread with phosphate finish. Piercing point for fast fixing of plasterboard to light Steel or wood studs without pre-drilling. Bugle head sets them to right depth without tearing paper.
Phillips Hardened Rust-Resistant "
sounds different from what we said above? ;-)
You will see the difference when you handle one in the flesh...
(talking of which, don't get longer ones get into a pouch of 30mm ones by accident, or you can accidentally end up screwing your self to a stud... DAMHIK)
Also do not tread on any drywall screws with just socks on... ....makes putting your knee on an upturned 13A plug quite trivial in comparison.
Lol
js.b1 wrote:
Always leave them in the box so the assistant sticks his hand in to get em. Watch carefully :)
To the OP, PB screws have a great variety of uses, don't shirk at getting a box of 1000.
NT
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