Screws for guttering? from Screwfix?

[neverwas]

I'm replacing PVC gutter on Victorian, wood fascia boards and was planning to use stainless steel screws. But I can't find any stainless roundhead wood screws from Screwfix which makes me think I've got it wrong somewhere as it must surely be a common job. What is recommended please?

Oh, and the fascia boards are well-attached and free from rot or major splits but not thick so I was reckoning on 4x25mm and drilling pilot holes. (There's scaffolding up for the replacement roof so for once I won't feel the need for 3 hands.)

[robgraham]

These people will have what you want.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Suitable brass roundheads should be easy to find. You'll need to drill the correct pilot hole for them, though.

[A.Lee]

I always use brass countersunk slot head screws for gutter clips. Doesnt really matter about the length, so long as they are long enough, there is a void behind the fascia, so longer screws wont push into anything. I dont think there is mush wrong with using decent coated steel screws for such thnings, I've done a few gutters in the last year, and never had much of a problem getting old corroded screws off, they usually can be pulled out. They are quite well protected on most roofs, so dont corrode as much as you'd think, though I'm sticking with the brass for the time being - a good selling point to customers, but in reality, there is little difference, especially if you put a dob of paint on each screw head when they are fitted. Alan.

[Cash]

Need to be careful about the diameter of the brass screws though Dave especially if living in a 'high' snow or wind area as the load pressures on gutters can be heavy (although in this case, the plastic would probably break first).

Cash

[Tim Lamb]

Hmm.. I put a stainless washer under the head if I am using counter sunk head screws.

Screwfix do stainless pan head self tappers anyway.

regards

[neverwas]

Thanks to all.

I'll start by trying traditional brass roundhead again since I've the scaffolding to facilitate pilot holes and steel screws to cut the thread. (Past minor repairs have shown the wood is a bit on the hard side by my lowly standards).

But I'll also order some s/s just in case: they'll be a good excuse for me to play some more with this d-i-y thingie.

[robgraham]

I would be a bit wary about doing that - I take it that this is under a zinc plated wood screw. If you look at a Galvanic Table, zinc is very anodic whereas most types of stainless steels are well into the cathodic end of the table - agreed one or two are quite close to zinc but how is one to know which type the washers are made of.

Rob

[Tim Lamb]

In message , robgraham writes

I hadn't considered that aspect; seeing the problem as the contact point between the screw head and the square section recess (Osma gutter brackets).

Obviously not an issue with round or pan heads.

BTW what is *yellow passivation*?

regards

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Assuming the guttering is so far up (by the scaffolding comment) I doubt you'd be able to tell what heads are on the screws. So personally I'd just use countersunk brass with no washers. At least you should be able to get those out again if needed - unlike round heads. ;-)

My house is all plastic - but I did a repair on next doors which is the original cast iron - and the brackets for those used CS brass. Dunno if they're original of course.

[meow2222]

can one use phosphated plasterboard screws for this? The black coating seems to be quite robust, and the thin shank means they go in easier & no pilot hole needed. I assume the answer is no, but worth asking :)

NT