Sash windows/retaining plastic parting bead.

Mighton sell plastic parting bead, which I have a quantity of:

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They reckon that if the groove for the parting bead is too wide, "fill it with caulk, drill a 2mm hole through the bead, top to bottom, and drive in a pin".

I think it would be better to screw the thing in. There is not a lot of meat on the box stile, maybe 3/8". However, finding 2 gauge by 1 3/8" screws seems a fruitless task.

Any ideas?

Reply to
Chris Bacon
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Why not get someone in who knows what they're doing? The manufacturer doesn't suggest using fasteners.

Reply to
Pamela

Are you suggesting the 'pin' in question isn't a fastener?

Reply to
Fredxx

The c*ut's pssed off because it could not make a sensible reply to my or any others' comments ealier. Don't feed it, killfile the "heifer" (you know how that's pronounced). so it shows itself up (again) as "A Idjert" (sic). Pffft.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

I'm afraid sash windows aren't an area I've ever worked on, otherwise I would have replied with something more helpful.

It is perhaps a coincidence that one fanatical remainer has seemed to have disappeared and another reappeared. It's like playing whack-a-mole!

Reply to
Fredxx

I'm afraid sash windows aren't an area I've ever worked on, otherwise I would have replied with something more helpful.

It is perhaps a coincidence that one fanatical remainer has seemed to have disappeared and another reappeared. It's like playing whack-a-mole!

Reply to
Fredxx

Excellent! I got one! I am so glad to have upset you, and so easily, you POS! ROFLMAO!

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Going to be tricky to find a wood screw of the dimensions needed. Panel pins are the normal way. It's hardly something that needs to be removed often.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News

I w "Easy to fit and saves a lot of time. I did not have to clean or re[lace the old parting bead. This product was fitted in seconds."

Reply to
Pamela

Yes. Up to No. 2 by 3/4" in old money, not enough. I think I'll use stainless annular nails. Bit difficult where the pocket cover is though.... I've never had to use pins on parting bead before, but then I normally make the stuff to size. This Mighton stuff looks pretty good, I'll incorporate it on further windows I make. Last time I dealt with them was over a decade ago, when they had the pic of "Granny" on their catalogue.

I see that Shithead's now trying to get at me through you! *Most amusing!* :) The remainer hurt runs deep in that one, thank God most aren't so feeble minded, and get on with the job. Speaking of which...

Reply to
Chris Bacon

Much of the wood parting bead here was nailed on. It may have been a press fit when new, though.

I've used that plastic stuff with seal. I drilled holes for the pins - slightly undersized.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News

Ideally, parting bead should be a tight fit in the groove so that it stays put when tapped in, with no retention device needed. I've found that dragging an 8mm chisel down the groove cleans it out by the right amount for (wooden) bead to fit well.

I've not used Mighton's plastic parting bead. Is it significantly thinner than wooden bead? If so, I would be tempted to try to use thin strips of packing made from a suitable material (formica?) so that the bead fits tightly.

Reply to
Roger Mills

The PVC parting bead fits into an 8.5mm groove (it's 9mm wide). If it's too tight, it won't go in, if too loose, it slips out. Caulk and pins (drill the bead using a pillar drill). I've relieved the grooves where they're too tight similarly to how you did.

The parting bead itself has V-shaped fins on the part that protudes from the groove, and the sliding sashes bear on the fins, which makes sliding easier and draughtproofs that part of the sash.

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has the general idea.

No hope of sealing the meeting rails with their product (standard weatherstripping), it needs a lot of clearance, as does the interlocking seal, so I'll either not bother, since the Brighton fasteners I have pull it up tight, or use a strip of something on top of the lower meeting rail.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

I've only used their timber staff and parting beads, fitted with brush seals - which are ok but don't completely eliminate drafts and traffic noise. I've also tried to use seals at the top and bottom, and where the sashes meet - but again with limited success.

I'd like to replace the whole lot with modern double glazed sashes, but they're in a Grade II Listed Building - so that's out.

Reply to
Roger Mills

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