sanding stairs - follow up with pics

Hi folks,
An update on the project aiming to strip the paint, sand and varnish
pine stairs. I am only doing threads and risers. Stairs are leading
to front door and I want to paint them clear-satin (natural wood
look). I am not particurarly bothered with them being slippery - there
are no children and I can always have rubber strips or something
similar. I will post pics along the way and ask two questions at the
end.
I have started with stairs painted white on both sides. Sanded top
step with random orbital sander but found this very ineffective (paint
clogging sheets) and dangerous (possible lead paint).
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your advice, I used Nitromors instead to strip the paint and
here is the result:
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, I got to my random orbital and delta sander again and prepared
stairs for varnishing:
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questions:
1) wood on both sides is a bit lighter than wood in the middle
(particurarly noticable on risers). I can't help with sander anymore.
Will this darken equally under varnish or do I need to pre-stain the
sides with something ?
2) I plan to use polyurethane varnish (I need sth low maintenence and
long lasting). Should I use water or solvent based one ? Visiting
local shed there are only two:
- Ronseal diamond hard and
- Sadolin.
Both water based (because they say to clean the brush with water).
Looking at screwfix there are two as well:
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one looks like it's solvent based. What would be your choice ?
I don't mind if it takes long to dry, toughness is my priority.
any help much appreciated,
Reply to
olo
Varnish usually highlights the difference.
or do I need to pre-stain the
"2 part woodworking bleach" (Rustins?) is probably your best bet. Part 1 is strongly alkaline and makes everything darker. Part 2 looks as though it's not doing much until it dries. It may not mask the shade change completely but it will almost certainly be an improvement. Nasty stuff so heed all safety blurb.
Rustins 2 part floor varnish if you want toughness and a genuinely clear finish.
Reply to
Stuart Noble
Try some Nitromors and course wire wool on the dark part of the stairs,that might bring it up more?
Reply to
George
================================== Regardless of any other treatment I would suggest that you consider some kind of protective cover for the leading edges of the treads. This is the part of a step that bears the brunt of everyday wear and could quickly become dangerous.
As far as the colour goes I would echo the suggestion of more Nitromors treatment as you're probably seeing engrained paint residue rather than a true colour discrepancy.
Cic.
Reply to
Cicero
If you do have to stain, you will need to find some equivalent wood and do some testing. Pine is always difficult to stain satisfactorily. One trick I've discovered is to stain pale pink first (dilute red mahogany 4 : 1 or so) and then stain with light oak. All the pine stains give too yellow a finish for my liking.
Rob
Reply to
robgraham
cool - thanks for all your advice,
I will try Nitromors & wire wool first on the darker parts. Failing that I will experiment with wood bleach.
Also thanks for suggesting rustins 2 part varnish as being tough, I think it is this one we're talking about here:
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Reply to
olo
That's the one. Bear in mind that it's fairly thick, and will look like a sheet of glass if brushed on and left to set. I prefer to massage it into the surface with a rag, which produces more of a satin look. Disgusting stuff to use. The fumes are mighty powerful, but short lived
Reply to
Stuart Noble
If you really want toughness (and you don't have UV to worry about indoors) use epoxy. West Systems is pretty good - I'm just having to redo my boat, after 10 years of living outdoors under a canvas cover, so that's pretty tough.
Andy
Reply to
Andy Champ

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