Router table fence

has anyone used one of these and are they any good
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-universal-router-fence-prod780060/?src=froogle
I am building my own table have sorted the top, legs and insert plate and was browsing for plans for a fence
I have a suspicion that this was previous reported as not being quite square to the table top but I may have been thinking of something else
regards
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I made my own out of MDF ... why not make your own ... will be exact size you want then.
I took advice form some guys here who had done this ... and made mine.
http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx351/Tafflad/fence-rear.jpg
http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx351/Tafflad/fence-front.jpg
Since pics were taken ... complete it to have ...
Added melamine faced ply faces to the vertical section .. these allow wood to slide easily and will be replaced as necessary, split so I can offset when needed. extract hose port fitted to rear box.
I also made up a truing jig, so I used my router with a wide bit and made sure horizontal face and vertical face were true and exactly 90 degrees ... although 1" MDF should have been true, I think my gluing up & biscuit jointing had put some stresses in it, and it had warped a little, less than a mm, but it was easy enough to correct.
I built my Table with TREND router table insert plate ... well worth the cost, my TREND T11 has a great micrometer adjustment, that works from above table when Router is in place.
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wrote:

I made my own out of MDF ... why not make your own ... will be exact size you want then.
I took advice form some guys here who had done this ... and made mine.
http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx351/Tafflad/fence-rear.jpg
http://i771.photobucket.com/albums/xx351/Tafflad/fence-front.jpg
Since pics were taken ... complete it to have ...
Added melamine faced ply faces to the vertical section .. these allow wood to slide easily and will be replaced as necessary, split so I can offset when needed. extract hose port fitted to rear box.
I also made up a truing jig, so I used my router with a wide bit and made sure horizontal face and vertical face were true and exactly 90 degrees ... although 1" MDF should have been true, I think my gluing up & biscuit jointing had put some stresses in it, and it had warped a little, less than a mm, but it was easy enough to correct.
I built my Table with TREND router table insert plate ... well worth the cost, my TREND T11 has a great micrometer adjustment, that works from above table when Router is in place.
yep thats the sort of thing I had in mind to make I was looking for the T bolts and knobs when I came across the axminster one hence the question
I have the Freud 2200 1/2 inch router with the micro adjuster I will need to turn it from below but it is easy to do
I am looking at the Trend Aluminium insert plate from Axminster
what feather boards do you use?
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On 08/01/2012 23:19, TMC wrote:

On that point, remember to leave enough height to get your mit in to twiddle it. Its a bit close on mine!
--
Cheers,

John.

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wrote:

I was thinking of a full height table rather than a bench top one so height should be no problem although I could be persuaded otherwise
I was thinking that the router table is quite high when on a 400mm high bench top stand although having said that it would be no higher than the planer table on my bench top planer thicknesser
Pros and cons anyone?
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I have mine as a bench top and like the height to be able to see closely what I'm doing. If I was building a free standing one I would make its working surface well above normal work bench height.
OK I'm at the age where lengthy bending over is a pain (!), but I'm now rather of the opinion that all power tools of this type - planer, table saw, lathes, bandsaw are too low (modern lathes have addressed this).
I see the problem with low working surfaces for planers, etc., is that because they are low the operator can lean onto the workpiece and put too much of his weight directly on to it, forcing it through the cutter, with the consequent danger to the workpiece, tool and himself. Both my router and table saw are high and I cannot do that so the workpiece has to be guided through with arm strength only which I think is a healthier condition.
Rob
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On 10/01/2012 09:12, TMC wrote:

I use a trend table, which is reasonably tall, although only just enough for comfortable use with the freud. I have a permanent based fixed to this with a cross bar on the underside. This then clamps into a workmate on its tall setting. That gets the table height up to chest height which is reasonably comfortable work on.
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Cheers,

John.

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wrote:

so well high then and much higher than any of the ones in the online videos
incidentally did you have to drill the trend plate for the router fixing screww or did they match up with the trend ones?
Also (and I have not even looked ot the router and how it would fit to a plate) did you remove the black plastic from the router base plate prior to fixing on does it fit straight on
Regards
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On 10/01/2012 16:10, TMC wrote:

Yup... I am fairly tall, so find normal workbenches a bit low anyway, but for routing I like to have stuff nearer to the peepers! I am not generally trying to hump heavy timbers onto the table, so its not really a disadvantage.

Trend used to do several versions, and it was a case of buying the one that did your router. Plate D IIRC fits the Freud FT2000E without any drilling.

Turns out you need that plastic bit left on to get the depth of screw thread to fix into... (DAMHIK!)
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John.

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wrote:

Hi John
It would appear that the plate you got was for the MK2 table which has now been discontinued
A couple of places still have them listed on their websites but not the same places as have the type d plates listed
The MK3 appears to have a removable aluminium plate pre drilled for the Trend T11 which I guess would need to be drilled to take the Freud
good to find out about the plastic plate though as I would have removed it
Regards
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