When a leaky (yorkshire type with in-built solder ring) fitting is
replaced the advice is to use a new fitting (of course), but do you
need to remove the old solder from the pipe ends?
a) Some people say you must clean the pipe back to bare copper leaving
no trace of the old solder .
b) Others say you heat it and wipe the old solder smooth with steel
wool and that the rpesence of solder on the pipe will actually help.
If it has been burn or overheated then yes, remove it back to bare
Otherwise get it molten and wipe the solder off, then take a good look
all the way round to make sure the solder has flowed properly all the
way around. If it has then use some abrasive to just flatten it down
enough to make a new fitting go on easily, flux then solder as normal
with a new fitting.
"Tinning" (coating parts to be joined with a thin solder film before
joining them) is a normal technique when soldering and used to achieve
the best quality joints. You can wipe the joint with steel wool
although a quick wipe with dry wool or cotton rag is often better at
removing the solder evenly.
The only problem you are likely to encounter is difficulty fitting the
new coupling if a blob of old solder remains after wiping in which
case reheat the joint gently and re-wipe. The most common error is
The flux is designed to work within a set temperature range, if you
exceed it the flux will burn and foul up the joint. Burnt flux is just
dirt, and you'll need to dismantle the joint and clean it up.
If you get much hotter the solder will burn. This forms a hard crust
which is difficult to remove and doesn't take well to being
Steve ( out in the sticks )
Email: Take time to reply: timefrom_usenetgmx.net
When I've been teaching people and watching what they do wrong,
I would say the most common error is heating for too long.
That can include over-heating, but also includes not heating
properly so joint isn't getting hot enough quickly enough.
Following up in a close second place is not cleaning up the
mating copper surfaces well enough in the first place.
With regards to cleaning up prior to resoldering, then I would
say if you disassembled a working joint, then it must have been
properly tinned in the first place. If you disassembled a leaking
joint, then it wasn't properly tinned, and unless you can work out
where the failure was and fix it, you might end up with the same
problem again. You don't need to take all the solder off, but you
need to ensure the exposed solder and copper are clean, bright and
shiney, and reflux in the case of exposed copper. Because of the
difficulty in inspecting and cleaning up internal surfaces in
fittings, it's usually easier to use a new fitting.
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
If it was leaking it could mean the original wasn't clean (or not enough
flux/heat was used) so the solder didn't 'tin' properly. However this
should be obvious after removal by examining the pipe. If the solder
coating is continuous then simply apply flux, heat, push on the new
fitting etc and solder as normal. But that's for end feed. With solder
ring you'll need to be able to assemble things before applying heat.
*Heart attacks... God's revenge for eating his animal friends
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
Remove burned or oxidised copper or solder, and all flux traces.
Otherwise clean, shiny solder traces count as tinning and are helpful.
Remember that tin oxides are transparent, so may still be present when
you can't see them. Generally a good scratch at it all over with #1
wire wool is enough. Use a strip of rucksack webbing (1" flexy nylon)
or similar with a snippet of wire wool trapped underneath it to
"towel" around the back of the pipe.
On Sat, 3 Jan 2009 00:49:58 -0800 (PST), RobertL wrote:
Rubbish, you want the pipe "tinned", this will make the making the new
joint much easier.
Heat the pipe so that the solder flows and wipe any excess away/off with a
slightly damp rag. This should leave nothing more than the tinned pipe
nice and clean ready for a dab of flux and new joint.
Steel wool is for cleaning pipe before a first joint is made, personally I
don't like it for that purpose it leaves lots of bits about. One of the
proper pipe cleaner tools is easier and less messy.
Steel wool's an excellent way to screw up a joint if you don't remove
all the bits, cheap nasty pan scourers or a scotch abrasive pad are best
IMHO but my father in law swore by wire wool (he was a plumber for 40+
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 14:09:27 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
I just use a bit of ali oxide 120 or 80 grit "sand" paper. Cut an inch
wide strip off the end of the roll, marginally cheaper than the 25mm wide
strip but not worth worrying about. One less thing to carry though.
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