all depends on if you know what to do with it in the first place, bloody dangerous if you don't, after seeing the remains of one burnt to a crisp
all depends on if you know what to do with it in the first place, bloody dangerous if you don't, after seeing the remains of one burnt to a crisp
You would normally disconnect it and use the continuity setting if checking the parameters of a switch.
continuity what's that? where do the leads go on the meter? I get reading on these two connectors but not these two, why do I get a reading when the probes are not connected ETC to some one who has no idea what to expect or how to use a meter these are the sort of questions you get(my father for one)
Perhaps anyone that stupid shouldn't be fiddling with electricity?
ICBW but it just /looks/ to me like the back of an MK 4875 intermediate switch (old Logic range), or a clone thereof, and the wording in question definitely ends in "ate".
If it were a DP switch it would have a 20 A rating and the terminals would be larger. I don't think MK ever did a 6 A DP plate switch in that range. Also a DP switch would usually have L and N markings on the terminals.
Of course an intermediate switch would usually be wired using 3C+E cable, with the (old) core colours to the switch being red and blue. Here we have blacks, so the cables must be T&E and the wiring done with the line feeding in to one of the associated 2-way switches and the switched line take from the other 2-way.
which is why I questioned "slap a meter across it" ,you don't need to be stupid not to know how to use a meter, or an oscilloscope or any other piece of test gear, just because its obvious to you or me its not for everybody
two pole isolators are available. Meant to ensure you don't get killed when working on circuits where someone has flipped live and neutral..
But I do think its an intermediate..which IME are always avialable in te same style as normal switches.
It looks like the switch is one of (at least) three that control a single light position. Have a look at the "three way" section here:
Clean the paint off it and refit it. I think you will struggle to get a matching intermediate switch.
Perhaps look at the MK Gridswitch range - you may find something.
They should be easy enough to find:
Tim
the op wanted funky metal ones I seem to remember
Can't remember /which/ metal faced one the OP wanted, but a /very/ quick google gave:
Pretty well all the major makes will do a one gang intermediate in all their ranges - but it may not listed on wholesalers's websites, etc.
If you've gone for shed specials, the lack of range is something you ultimately pay for in their reduced range.
He told me via email that intermediate switches were available in the desired range
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