Removing a radiator for decorating, newbie question.. :)

[Darren]

Hello All,

I've just bought my first place and need to remove and then replace a radiator. I was hoping some of the more experienced might be able to advise if i've missed anything. The steps I had in mind are:

- Turn off entire system.

- Removing: 1) Shut "in" and "return" valves, making note of how many turns to open return valve again. 2) Undo nuts holding radiator to valve at either end being careful not to kink pipe. 3) Be ready to catch any water that comes out. (Wondering if how much there will actually be..) Lift off wall.

- Replacing:

1) Put some PTFE tape around valve connectors and use new olive. 2) Hang radiator back on mounts, and connect back up to valve connectors, doing up nuts reasonably but not overtight. 3) Open "in" and bleed valve, to clear any air then shut bleed. 4) Then open "return" valve same number of turns as was open originally. 5) Turn on system and shout "eureka" 'cause it all worked!

I'm not clear if step 3) and 4) are enough to get any air out, so any comments or tips on that or the other steps are most welcome !

TIA for any help,

Darren.

[Dave Baker]

I'd undo one end only at first and use a dustpan or shallow tupperware to catch the water. Have a bucket to keep emptying that into as well. Put plenty of rags and/or polythene sheet down first because that stuff sure will stain if you get it on the carpet. Crack the joint a bit and undo the air bleed valve at the top to let the water out. There'll be a few pints of it. Then open the other end and catch anything that runs out of that. As you lift the rad off you'll get even more water out so having a helper to tilt it one way for a minute while you drain the last bit into a container is a good idea.

There probably won't be an olive between the rad and the valve. It'll be a cup and cone joint. You can use ptfe round the threads and jointing compound or silicon on the cone if you like. They usually seal fine dry though. Good idea to clean the cup and cone up with wire wool or fine emery before you refit.

Sounds like you have it all pretty well sussed out.

Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

I'm not at all sure why women like men. We're argumentative, childish, unsociable and extremely unappealing naked. I'm quite grateful they do though.

[Set Square]

You've got it pretty much right.

You don't actually need to turn off the whole system, because - provided both radiator valves turn off fully - that rad will be isolated and you can run the rest of the system without it.

I use aluminium foil takeaway food containers to catch the water - because they can easily be bent into the odd shape required. If you partially unscrew one of the cone joints, you can stop the flow to empty the foil container into a bucket by squeezing the joint with your other hand. As others have said, have lots of old towels etc. handy - because you are bound to spill *some* water, and it makes nasty black stains on carpets etc.

If your system has inhibitor in it - which it should have - put most of the water drained from the radiator back into the header tank. Let it stand and settle , and avoid putting any sludge back into the header. [Make sure you know which is the header for the CH so as *not* to pour it into the domestic hot water header! (The CH header is much smaller with only a small quantity of water in it)].

When putting the radiator back, I usually put a smear of Boss White on the conical faces of the cone joints - particularly if they have previously had some on them.