Mending a broken wing mirror will be a lot easier if I can remove the cable that passes through the centre of the bit I want to repair. I can only do this if I can remove the individual wires from this plug. I dare say not tricky but I'd rather not c*ck up and end up damaging the connector.
Tim
Those kind of connectors are a bit of a pain: there are one or two barbs that you need to compress to pull the pin out.
You might have some luck with the tools designed to remove pins from PC power supply cables, for example:
- they might do a better job than poking at it with a screwdriver. Or else you could improvise a similar contraption.
Theo
The contacts are crimped on to the cable ends and then pushed into the back of the shell, where they lock in. Some shells are designed so the contacts can be unlocked (sometimes with a special tool). I can't tell from your photos if that's the case with yours, but it seems unlikely the mirror would have been designed with that specific requirement in mind.
Do you really need to get it off? If so, the easiest way may be to cut right through the cable, and then join it up afterwards.
It will make repair a lot easier.
That's "plan B". ;-) Hoping just to remove the individual wires from the plug though if it's not too hard.
Tim
There are various tools designed to do this, search Ebay for "Terminal Release Tool Set", but not cost effective for a one-off job. As the other poster says, you may be able to fashion something similar from the pictures.
I've tried a couple of skinny pokey things down various holes whilst pulling on the wires but nothing seems to work. :-(
Plan "B" fast approaching. ;-)
Tim
Plan B is the best bet! You can rejoin them with crimps (best option) or bullets or male/female spade connectors if you prefer.
In days of yore the trick was to get the bit of smashed telescopic aerial that just fitted over the pins and use that to retract the barbs...
I think the wire crimps in the plug have a sticking-up tang which clicks behind a ridge in the moulding. You can probably insert a thin screwdriver into the slot beside each socket-hole to bend the tang flat, while at the same time pushing the wire in to remove friction between the tang and the ridge, then pull the wire and crimp out. To replace the crimp afterwards, bend the tang up slightly before reinserting.
I always had good success with a very fine flat bladed screwdriver (watchmaker size), slid down flat and then rotated though 90 degrees, pushing the barb back flush with the fitting (or left flat if the barb is plastic and part of the plug body).
Sometimes you need to take the pressure off the pin (by pushing it into the socket), sliding the screwdriver down the side and *then* pilling the wire / pin back out with the driver held in place.
In fact I don't think there has ever been a plug I've not released the pins from that way? ;-)
The trick is that the screwdriver blade has to be parallel, fine enough to *just* slide down the gap yet strong enough to be able to move / bend any metal tangs back without bending / breaking itself. A bit like picking a lock.
Are there any clues from any of the unused pin holes what side has the 'barb' (the socket or the pin)?
Cheers, T i m
Don't know that exact connector as there are hundreds of different types. But it does look like the standard idea - the terminal pushes into the housing and is locked by a barb on the terminal. A jeweller's screwdriver or similar flat small blade is needed to release the barb. There are tools with a variety of 'small flat blades' for the purpose - but are pretty expensive.
How about the other end of the cable?
In message , Tim+ writes
OT, but whenever Tim posts a dropbox link, I have to manually copy and paste, to exclude the ?dl=1 which seems to be added at the end. Is it just me?
It is a minor annoyance, you click the link, it launches in the browser launches then apparently nothing happens, then you remember that it's a download link, not a view link, and have to launch the image from downloads using an external viewer
Omitting the ?dl=1 or changing it to ?dl=0 would be simpler.
Does it work without the end bit?
I'll trim it off in future if it causes problems. Personally, the original link opens just fine for me (using Newstap on iPad/iPhone). What newsreader are you using?
Tim
En el artículo , Graeme escribió:
No, it's not just you. Change it to ?dl=0
Having dl=0 makes opening a Dropbox link a two stage process for me (and I thought for most others) as you then get an option to open the link in the Dropbox app or a browser. Changing it to a "1" removes this option.
Makes no odds to me, I'll post whatever works best for most people.
So which works best?
Tim
Then you get the other minor annoyance ... a bloated javascript driven page that takes 21 seconds to load and scale the image!
In message , Tim+ writes
Yes, perfectly.
Turnpike. Some things never change :-)
In message , Tim+ writes
That does not open the link. I get an option to download the file.
That works, link opens (in Chrome).
That works, link opens (in Chrome).
Interesting, =1 worked best for me with Seamonkey. The other links failed.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.