Hi
If I turn off the rad at both ends ... release pressure at the bleed and valve, and then close. .. then can I undo one end of rad at a time a pop a stop end on each, to avoid emptying the rad ?
Mike P the 1st
In theory, yes; but in practice as you unscrew the radiator coupling it will start leaking, which will continue all the time you unscrew it and have withdrawn the CH pipes to enable you to plug the end with a cork or something. Trying to do that as quickly as possible, IMHO you'll make much more mess than if just drain down the rad carefully, methodically, and under control.
The only reason I can see for not draining the rad would be to preserve the volume of inhibitor inside, which won't be huge anyway relative to the rest of the system.
David
You may also find the extra weight of the water a problem.
Agree, for a large rad the water does make it a bit heavy.
Always done it this way though, in practice there is little loss of water if the valve is pressed against the radiator whilst loosening the nut and you are quick in fitting the end stop.
This is on an 8mm system though where it is easy to move the pipework out of the way. On 15mm I imagine it could be a lot more awkward.
CK
PS: In cold weather, remember to cap the TRV as well :-)
Not a dogs chance IME. Use a wet/dry vacuum.
On Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:41:28 +0100, Moonraker gently dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:
It is only a small rad ... she said the plumber took off another one using the method I described above ... he emptied it outside. He charged her£85 ! I was hoping the vacuem would hold most of the water back whilst I got a stop end on.
Mike P the 1st
No, it'll go gurgle-gurgle, because the water surface is open to the air. It would need to be a small hole which might allow surface tension to prevent water egress.
Further, as you will be trying to do things at speed, there's a chance you won't be able to take enough care and may damage something such as the CH pipework.
On Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:48:45 +0100, The Medway Handyman gently dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:
Thats it then ... I will drain it bit by bit as I have done in the past. Thanx all.
Mike P the 1st
If it's just to paint behind it, if you're careful you can just loosen the connectors and rotate the radiator so it's flat. Beware, it's very easy to trip over it in this position!
JGH
A paint pad on a long handle can often slide in behind the radiator.
You may get away with it - but have something ready to catch the water!
The trick is to apply pressure to the side of the valve - pushing it up against the rad as you undo the nut - that way you maintain most of the seal. Only when the nut is free and spinning on the tail do you risk pulling the step away from the rad. This will only work of there is a bit of movement in the stem yo let you get it clear enough to get something over/in the end. Remember also the internal section of the tail is probably hex to match the rad tail key - so a round bung may not work!
Get a rad brush (long and short handle available) with small roller. However another idea is to paste aluminium foil on the wall behind the rad to reflect back the heat rather than warm up the wall.
On Fri, 12 Aug 2011 03:54:54 +0100, John Rumm gently dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:
I have bought two stop ends for the job .. they screw on.
It is only because ... if the customer rams her head against the wall, she can see the rough plaster and partly painted wall behind the rad. Not my painting I might add. She wants it rubbed smoothly down behind and painted. Only the bloody spiders can see it ! Definitly OCD .. but she is a nice lady.
Mike P the 1st
Mike P the 1st used his keyboard to write :
I came across one interesting method....
Assuming the water has somewhere to be blown out of the radiator to. Replace the bleed valve with an adaptor with a Schrader (sp?) valve, to which a compressor or air pump can be fitted. Air pumped in will push the water out of the radiator, once blown down as low as the valves, close them and you the have an empty radiator.
Yup, would work nicely on a vented system. Would not try it on a sealed one though ;-)
It's the method I use for wallpapering behind rads. Maybe not worth it for just painting, as you say
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