Recommendations for a base for a shed to encourage a long life (of the shed!)

Square paving slabs as load spreaders, short brick piers, thick polythene (DPC) or proper A1 roofing felt on top as DPC.

Airflow under a shed prevents rot, moves the shed timbers out of the ground "rot zone", and provides protection from splashback (rain hitting ground splashes back up causing damp).

If you plan on using the shed as a work room in winter, insulate the floor re cold feet (polystyrene jablite with whatever flooring on top), and insulate the ceiling re sun bake & winter heat loss. A dehumidifier will keep things dry, but are expensive to run if any air changes per hour so vapour barrier everything.

The last shed we put up at school was on level ground and we used 4x4 post timbers as a sub-base on which to lay the shed floor proper. This lifts it up enough to allow air-flow, keep the floor out of any standing water, and they look part of the shed.

Works well .. ;)

now want to replace it with a shiny new model.

pparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. =A0B= ear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

t as a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so cur= ious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

use those for substantial parts of the job. =A0Do you need to consider wate= r penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

A regularly discussed topic here

When set just drop the shed floor on to it

Concrete blocks with wooden bearers at 500mm centres at right angles to the shed floor 'joists' cheaper but more trouble to get level all over

Pallets laid on bits of slab would also work

I've used old wooden railway sleepers in the past with 1 1/2 inch plywood sheets screwed to them. Worked a treat!

want to replace it with a shiny new model.

apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

whats going/gone on my shed is not te base and neither is it the floor except where a roof leak allowed water to pool inside.

Its the roof.

Anything that reliably keeps the shed timbers clear of the ground is OK.

Many thanks one and all.

Matt

want to replace it with a shiny new model.

apparently rolls of shed roofing felt laid over it to create a barrier. Bear in mind we estimate that the shed was at least 40 years old.

a base (essentially anything solid-ish and level will do them), so curious if there are any particular recommendations or pitfalls to avoid.

those for substantial parts of the job. Do you need to consider water penetrating if sitting on a solid surface such as this?

Concrete fence posts laid on the ground. Good ventilation, they can't rot. You can often find damaged ones cheap.

In message , TMC writes

I've never liked the shed base just being laid onto a concrete/slab base

- seems to be asking for the cross members to rot. I like better ventilation.

That's basically what I did in the old house. Can't say I thought it was hard to get it level. Less work I'd say than laying slabs or a concrete base.