Recommanded gloss paint for handrails

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Reply to
Jim K..
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I haven't done any gloss painting since the demise of the high volatile paints.

What would be the recommended gloss paint nowadays for banisters and handrails which are going to get a lot of wear, and the surface preparation (currently new bare timber, although will have dried out by now on account of me leaving it in the house for months before cutting and fitting).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

You can still get solvent-based gloss, eg Wickes.

Dulux water-based gloss is s**te by comparison.

Even the Wickes isn't what I'd call hard-wearing.

I do that with things too. I've got a stainless steel kitchen sink I'm waiting for it to be the right moment to fit.

Owain

Reply to
spuorgelgoog

My experience of modern water-based satin finish paints on kitchen cabinets is that they are not impressive. The combination of hands, maybe oily foodstuffs and cleaning products removes the paint.

Depending on the brand the oil based paint may only be in the trade range and may only be exterior grade, or alternatively marketed as historic, restoration type authentic oil paint.

TW

Reply to
TimW

you can still get solvent based Dulux

tim

Reply to
tim...

Do they *need* to be painted? Oiled wood looks lovely. Oil is easy to apply and easy to repair. If the wood is uninspiring then you could rub-in a little stain before oiling, but I would avoid the combined "oil + stain" products because they can give uneven results (although perhaps it's my bad technique). Walnut or light oak stains look particularly good IMHO. You could try some on an off-cut, but don't judge until you've applied a couple of coats of oil.

Reply to
nothanks

What's wrong with 'exterior grade'? You might need to have then windows opne for a bit, but that's all.

Reply to
charles

Nothing at all. I was saying you might need to buy 'exterior' paint but that's fine. You don't need the UV resistance but hey. TW

Reply to
TimW

I'd have thought it would have higher moisture content from being left in the house, assuming it was initially kiln dried.

Or just the occasional coat of wax.

No, they're just shit.

If it's softwood I'd tend to use a natural looking stain like honey or antique pine - softwood can look really naff when stained with darker or cooler hardwood colours.

Reply to
Rob Morley

Not in Tangerine or Lime, which are the colours I wanted for my kitchen. Or at least not where I was shopping.

Owain

Reply to
spuorgelgoog

Go to a decent Decorators Merchant. They'll make any colour in any paint.

Reply to
charles

Two pack epoxy yacht paint?

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

Well all I can say is do not use Acrylic paint. It never seems to dry and any sign of water or damp and it goes sticky or falls off! It looked nice for about a week though complete with its surface treatment. Its been rubbed down and redone with 'traditional' paint but you can still feel some of the rougher places where the stuff that was the undercoat for the previous paint is leaching out of the wood. Bah Humbug. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

Yes I have a new TV aerial like that as well grin. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

My recent experience with oil/solvent based gloss is that it remains "soft" and liable to surface damage for weeks. Once this period has elapsed it is then much more robust. If painting banisters with such a paint you may have to be very careful for a couple of weeks until it fully dries/cures.

My banisters are painted with a water based gloss and after a while the oils/dirt on hands tends to make the paint surface somewhat sticky as though the paint is actually absorbing the oils or dirt.

Reply to
alan_m

I need to buy some soon. For indoor work I would think the price would put you off.

It'll do a lovely job once. I have a garden seat I varnished with 2-pot about 7 year ago (end of a tin). It still looks good.

Andy

Reply to
Vir Campestris

The toughest finish I have achieved with "modern" paint was by coating the pigmented paint with tough clear acrylic varnish. Screwfix sold the one we use - still got plenty so have not checked in a long time. Expressly sold for floors.

It does affect the colour - a bit - so necessary to take that into account.

Although it feels dry very quickly, the toughening process seems to take much, much longer so it is best if it can be left unused, or somehow protected, for some time.

I always used a roller to apply it - not caring for brushstrokes and preferring the slight orange-peel stipple.

Reply to
polygonum_on_google

Probably not that ideal for a surface that hands are likely to rub on a regular basis. The high points in the stipple will tend to abrade the oil and dirt from the hands which then collects in the low points.

With water based paints I too prefer the slight orange-peel stipple finish to the brush stroke finish. Even after viewing some Youtube videos suggesting that you can get a mirror like surface with water based paints I have yet to achieved this - however most of the time I don't care to much as long as the paint surface looks OK from 3 foot away :)

Reply to
alan_m

You could well be right - but I'll still go for stipple.

Other than where it is a positive feature, "wet look" shine is possibly unnecessary and even unpleasant in a domestic setting.

Reply to
polygonum_on_google

The product is Aqualac - no idea if it is still available.

Reply to
polygonum_on_google

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