Ready made pine doors

Jun 24, 2024 Last reply: 2 years ago 16 Replies

Building a shed. I want a door in a frame, not a draughty ledge and brace thing, it needs to be wood, not plastic or metal. If I can find one on a skip or off ebay that will be great, I can make the frame and adapt/repair the door but I might need to buy one.



Looking online cheap solid pine 40mm thick interior 4 panel doors are available from places like screwfix. If it's treated and painted how could it be unsuitable as an exterior shed door? Is it some kind of insulation and building control issue? or will it really be unsuitable?



Also the spec for these doors says there is a 10mm lipping on both edges allowing for a bit of trimming. How can a solid pine door have a solid pine lipping? What is the core made of?



TW


Cardboard honeycomb :-)

Only the 'skin' is solid

HTH BIBID

Avpx

(Solid) (pine) (doors) != (solid pine) (doors)

The 'solid' is probably chipboard aka weetabix in the wet. It's 'solid' because it's not hollow.

Ah almost:

"I think it is taking the mickey to describe them as solid pine, at best they are poorly constructed engineered pine with a veneer on the styles and rails, one of the rails had a void showing on the end where two concave sections met. The panel inserts are probably the most solid part of the door and are of engineered pine but so we’re all the other doors."

review from 'GCS IW', has pictures:

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Theo

Useful information! thank you. So wholly unsuitable for my purpose. It looks like I could get a framed ledge and brace door which actually is made of wood and only wood and is inexpensive.But from the builders merchant, not from screwfix. TW

Possibly find someone who is having double glazing fitted. You may find selection of front and back doors, often solid wood and suibale for exterior use.

Whwn I had my DG fitted the local firm took the doors away to reduce his bill to a third party waste collector he employed. He said he just put all the doors just outside of his yard and in a short time some passer-by would take them.

If you are going to make the frame yourself you might as well get talalised timber from a woodyard and make the door. If it's tanalised there won't be any issue with rot and you don't have to paint it if you don't want to. It won't cost a lot either.

If you've got any architectural salvage place nearby it might be worth having a look there.

Christ, that's poor. I'd save a search on ebay, wait, and get a decent used solid wood door nearby - on the assumption you can pick it up.

I got two recently, really decent Edwardian pine, freshly stripped, £35 each.

A *framed* ledge and brace thing makes a very good exterior door:

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(easy to make as well)

-- Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\ | Internode Ltd -

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| |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

Might it be a good idea to annotate the hinge side? I've seen them hung from the wrong side a number of times.

The brace will be inside the door so only I will see it if it is wrong. TW

Yup good point... it is in the text (second para of Assembly) - but I will add it to one of the pictures.

With timber doors, it works much better when it is under compression - so rising from the hinge side. So it it more than just aesthetics.

ok changed a pic to include a hinge side label.

At first I didn't believe you!

However I would like to think that is an isolated incident and says more about Screwfix and their incompetent marketing department.

If you can find another I would be impressed.

I have made my own, using tongued and groove flooring that were cheaper than 'planks' and more weatherproof. This was for a gate and I was able to make use of a pack of flooring of a convenient length such they didn't need cutting.

I cheated and didn't make the mortice and tenon joints. I used some very long screws into the horizontal rails. Obviously piloted and maybe countersunk into the side rails.

Each plank was screwed into the side and middle rails where possible to stop any further movement. Not ideal but quick and still looks good after 10 years. Nothing has sagged or moved.

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