Forgive my general stupidity here - but how long has this been a requirement????
I moved into our house 9 years ago and it was already fitted with an outside tap. No sign of any non-return valve.
You've got me wondering what a non-return valve looks like now - I can't recall having come across such a thing on any installation I've looked at.
PoP
On Thu, 01 Apr 2004 10:18:17 +0100, in uk.d-i-y PoP strung together this:
It could be built into the outside tap body itself.
Perhaps I'm wrong...it's just what I understand. Basically because of the possibility of back siphoning from hoses, etc.
Hopefully someone else can clarify...!
Just out of interest, why don't the water co's now insist on new installations having NRVs fitted to the rising main near the stop c*ck, thereby covering the entire property. Presumably there must be a reason?
David
One aspect could be flow restriction, but the main one is that they are also concerned about contamination within the house.
I talked to one of the companies about this, and they gave me an example with respect to a shower. It appears that there are people who use the hose from a shower to "clean where the sun don't shine" as he put it, and then drop the hose into the toilet for cleaning.
If there were no check valve, it would be possible for siphoning to occur from the toilet to the downstairs tap.
There are scenarios where an outside tap could be backsiphoned into the internal supply as well, hence the protection is per risky outlet according to nature of the hazard.
If you contact the Water Regulations Advisory Scheme -
- they will send you booklets on this stuff, and explain anything you want to know.
.andy
To email, substitute .nospam with .gl
Simon used his keyboard to write :
Rather than a kit, which will probably involve a self cutting connection into a supply pipe, better to buy the bits you need to do the job properly. The kits are only of limited use and depend upon a cold supply being just where it is needed and the self cutting fitting will restrict the flow.
Run as much of the new pipework as possible inside, preferably just have the tap alone on the outside wall so pipework is not subjected to possible frost damage. Otherwise make sure it is well insulated.
There are two ways to do it, one involves solderless pipe connections using olives and the other soldered connections. The latter are much cheaper and neater, but you will need a gas torch and a small amount of skill to do the joints.
There are two types of solder fittings, one which includes a ring of solder (solder ring) in the fittings and a type where you add the solder yourself.
Start work at the tap and finish with the T into the existing supply pipe. Clean all pipe ends and fittings internally carefully with a bit of wire wool, then add a bit of flux before attempting to solder.
Don't attempt to solder without first making sure that all water is drained out of the pipework in the area.
Mainly Muslims.
Correct. You could have the hose in the slimy fish pond and negative pressure occurs in the mains, then the slime will be drawn into the drinking supply. Also the dishwasher and washing machine may come on and the sink tap turned full on at the same time, then back siphoning into the house water supply.
Outside taps now come with the a double check valve integrated with the tap body. A simple job of just replacing the tap. They are quite cheap too.
I like these; straight through wallplate:
"Toby" wrote in news:c4hdh9$2iqjeh$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-223675.news.uni-berlin.de:
I've got to bite the bullet and look like a prawn and ask:
Wosser double check valve?
I can understand a NRV stopping back flow, but does a double check valve stop flow in both directions?
mike r
On Thu, 1 Apr 2004 19:30:01 +0000 (UTC), in uk.d-i-y mike ring strung together this:
I think they call those items taps!
A check valve is a NRV. A double one has two in-line.
"IMM" wrote in news:c4hvvo$gmo$ snipped-for-privacy@news7.svr.pol.co.uk:
You mean in case one malfuntions? That's what I *call* belt and braces
mike r
I *thought* some water authorities *required* a DCV and didn't like the tap mounted type very much?
I saw one of the "hosepipe pipe poked through the wall and jubilee clipped to the tap' type kits. After I pointed it out to them the owners got the 'plumber' back to fix the water that was spraying up the wall from the hose to tap fitting. He used some PTFE tape to give the hose a better fit ... oh and some Boss White ... nice ... (not)
I'd do the real thing for a bit more money (20 quid instead of a tenner, but a bit more work).
All the best ..
T i m
It was somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember Andy Hall saying something like:
The dirty, disgusting, filthy bastards. Some people are only just out of keeping coal in the bath.
Ideally I need quite good flow as its going to be used for a hose pipe. My kitchen sing is directly under our back window and its there on the outside that I want the tap. So if I got a plumber in what would I be looking at for him to fit me a good tap and not one that screws into the kitchen pipework.? Thanks Simon
Hmm, what happened to yesterday's rather curious follow-up here from IMM? Seems to have vanished from my news server, at least.
Wonder if it involved a fatwa?
David
I never saw any follow up.
Here it is.
Osama has added you to his kill file!
I think a reasonable charge (I what I'd charge :-) would be from around £50 to £100-ish depending how much hassle (& therefore time) is involved.
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