yeah, mains smoke alarm is another option I guess (although that is probably just as easy to branch of the lighting circuit I imagine?). The wiring is perhaps 35 years old as it was rewired when my parents moved in - it is all grey pvc now.
That is how it is now. Actually the 30A boiler fuse did used to supply an imersion heater but that went recently when the combi was installed and the tanks removed. The house was rewired 30 odd years ago and this is definately how it is wired now (the two 30A fuseholders have 2x2.5mm going into each one, and removing each fuse turns off the upstairs and downstairs respectively)
ah of course - I probably would stick a label on if I did a socket.
The alarm panel is situated about 2 feet above the CU - would that not count as local isolation (it only has an unswitched FCU anyway, but I guess it may need the 3A protection)?
cheers
Dave.
Yes - for non New-Build. IIRC New-Build has different requirements re supply, isolation, interconnection & big "red test-button" operating them all.
Mains powered is worth it - mine is downstairs in the hallway fed off the upstairs lighting circuit with an emergency non-maintained light. Since your lighting is on the unprotected side, that's of little benefit.
Good - at least it's not the old lead or butyl rubber cable, or aluminium :-)
Take care with your old tails, and verify CU position w.r.t. available tail length.
tails arent too long, but should be ok as long as the main isolator switch is on the right hand side of the CU (I assume you can have it at either end of the DIN rail?)
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