Not a good idea to screw down floor boards - too slow, unsightly and a
bugger (impossible) to remove once they have rusted in or lost their
slots due to wear or heavy handling. Most zinc coated or other
"corrosion resistant' screws will eventually rust in , or surface
oxidise a bit, by virtue of moisture in wood. Lifting a board then
means breaking it out and removing screws afterwards with a mole grip.
I know this cos I've had to do it many times.
A good basic rule of woodwork is to never use a screw where a nail
will do. In this case round 'lost head' nails, skewed in at the board
ends to meet the narrow joist.
Don't know the context of the above as it appeared on my newsreader
unthreaded; however I have to disagree with this. Particularly if
there's any likelihood of having to lift the same board (ever) again,
screws are far better - less damage to the joist and board. Screwing
boards down is an excellent way of curing creaking boards too.
Losing their slots? Who uses slotted screws these days?! TBH I would
say that given a decent power driver and a box of Pozidrive screws, it
would be well nigh as quick to screw boards as to nail them.
Admittedly, given a whole room to floor, I'd use nails, but if I'm
pulling up boards here and there for plumbing/wiring purposes, then
likely as not I'll replace them using screws.
My preference for flooring these days is square-drive "decking" screws.
They don't suffer cam-out, and in the context of Jacob's comments I think
they're less likely to corrode than standard screws.
Nailing down a loft full of chipboard flooring (onto loft joists that are
also likely to be under-specced compared with the floor joists in the rest
of the house) is IME also likely to give rise to a certain amount of repair
work to the ceilings below - more cracks if they're lath & plaster, or
filling plaster where it's popped off the nail heads if it's plasterboard.
It's relatively quick with a mains drill for pilot hole & countersink
drilling (combined drill/countersink bit) and a half-decent cordless for
Yebbut thats where the trouble starts - sooner or later someone who
doesn't have the proper drive bit has a go at removing them by
hammering away with the wrong tool. Either fails completely and
knackers the head, or succeeds but puts them back in with knackered
Been there done it seen it done many times. Very common prob nowadays
as they bring out another system every month - prodrive, posidrive,
square head, slotted, hexagonal, star drive, allen etc and all with a
range of different sizes. A cunning plot to make us keep buying more
tools I think.
Beat them at their own game by sticking to nails!
And will inevitably loosen in short order. The only nails that hold
floorboards securely are cut nails - and you need decent timber to use
them in otherwise it will split.
FWIW, I use screws in my place. And haven't had problems with them
rusting, etc. Even some over 25 years old. Of course the conditions within
the house will determine this. But I'd not like to live in one so cold and
damp where this really was a problem.
*Why is the word abbreviation so long?
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
wouldn't agree with that ... screwed down sheets of wheyrock in previous
house, square edge not t&g ... easy enough to lift when I wanted to get at
Bashing in a load of nails is going to play havoc with ceilings of floor
If your left is dry, the screws should not rust badly. Use sheradized if
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