Re: concrete floor pouring

2. how do I level it/tamp it - I was thinking of nailing/screwing boards

> where the skirting used to be and using these to get the level correct, > and using these to rest a board on (with cut-outs on each end) for tamping > down. Any other suggestions?

You might have problems tamping like this because you won't be able to slide the tamping board sideways to pare off the top of the concrete, and where will you stand? I'd put up some shuttering about 18" from each side, concrete inside this, then remove shuttering and fill in the outside later.

Rob Graham

Reply to
robgraham
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whilst you in there why not fit under floor heating pipes? last chance you will get to do it!

rpm

Reply to
R P McMurphy

| >whilst you in there why not fit under floor heating pipes? last chance you | >will get to do it! | >

| It begins with m and end in y. | Neil

oh.

;-)

rpm

Reply to
R P McMurphy

Shuttering is normally supported by pegs driven into the ground which you pull up when you remove the shuttering. So you don't need any walls to support it. But as you've got polystyrene underneath you won't want to drive pegs through. Cut lengths of wood, say 18" long, and put them between the shuttering and the wall, nailed to the shuttering to stop you kicking them out when you come to walk up and down the gap.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

Is this a concrete or a screed floor?

Conceret is layed wetter, is stronger and you idaelly bneed a molud and a pice of timber to run acrioss it to get it rigfht.

Screed is alyed almost dry, will support itself )not slump) and has no ballast in it, is wekare and contains airspaces, but a good screeder can level up a floor by building ridges using a level than trowelling, scraping and floating in between..

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

concrete Neil

Reply to
Niel A. Farrow

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