"BigWallop" wrote | There should be knob on the regulator that switches between the settings. | It may be like a small radio tuner knob, but it should be there. I can't | see Baxi making this type of adjustment to difficult for the installer to | change, so have a look around the front of the gas intake valve for a little | knob. Check it isn't covered over with a cap.
I think on my Baxi it's a screw-tightened slidey thing on the front of the boiler, visible when the fire front is taken off. Or maybe that's just an aide-memoire indicator to what it's been set to?
I'm familiar with some of the other specific models in this series. The heat input is adjustable over a continuously variable range by adjusting the burner pressure. You will need the instructions to find out where the test point is. The regulator itself is likely to be a screw slot that is accessible after you have undone a dust cover.
Whilst you could set the burner anywhere within the permitted range the rating plate shows 3 specific values so that you can record the 'correct' setting for others in the future.
I would guess this boiler has already seen its best years.
Ed Sirett snipped-for-privacy@makewrite.demon.co.uk> wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@makewrite.demon.co.uk:
WHAT!! It was put in in 97 and cost 2and a half grand!!
However, thanks to all; your comments appear to make sense against the manual, which is very quiet about it but does have pictures which tie in with your comments, but calls it a governor.
I also noticed "lint filters" which are probably 5 years overdue for cleaning - my hovel's a right dust trap, so I'll have a go at it when I can work out how to get the front off. Can't be harder than me Mums.
Aha - I presume this is one of the more recent versions of a back boiler. With electronic ignition rather than a permanent pilot light, and a fashionable fire. But otherwise much the same idea. CastIron(?), Conventional convection flue, Max 16kW.
Sorry the Bermuda name covers a BIG range of model spanning the years.
The term is interchangeable as described in the gas fitting FAQ.
Getting into back boilers is an black art. Every model seem to be different. Often they are held by screws which are out of reach of ordinary length screwdrivers. Some of the screws are easy to use but are cunningly concealed.
These boiler are one of those appliances which you really do have to be serviced every year.
You will need a U-gauge and length of 6mm tubing (the short one on the U-gauge is to keep the water in when not in use and to loop through the hanging hole so as to hang the U-gage on a pipe (say) -it won't stretch to the gas valve ). Also leak detection fluid to apply to the test point(s) after you have disconnected the tube and reclosed the screw.
In general test points are either like the one on the outlet of a gas meter (the screw is removed completely) or they are like a very very steep little volcano with a straight electric terminal type screw deep in the crater (which is simply slackened).
It is relatively easy to over tighten the test screws making it nigh on impossible to open without breaking the screw head the next time.
There is no set pattern for which way the adjusting screw will move the governor. Note there is often a _lot_ of backlash in the adjustment mechanism.
HTH
-- Ed Sirett Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at
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