Re: Aga temp problem?

Need one say more?

Mo, with a land rover probably.

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Reply to
The Natural Philosopher
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No, but I watched someone build ours from parts...

Get a pro in m8 :-)

All that repacking with insulatuon and gentle filing to get teh parts to fit.

Mind you with gas you don't have to check oil flow etc etc.

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

I have only reassembled a few oil fired Agas so my experience of gas fired beasts is zero. However there are many points of similarity and so I will pass on a few tips.

The vertical rods that secure the top to the rest of the structure should be firmly locked at the bottom plate. Six lengths,or four if it is a two oven model, of 10mm copper pipe, about 4 to 6 inches, pushed onto the rods makes the alignment with the holes in the Aga top a simple matter.Although two or even three people makes lighter work!

Don't be in a hurry to re- stuff the insulation until you have adjusted both the hot plates to be absolutely level and at equal heights. Having done the levelling put the top in place and ensure that each hot plate is below it's surround by the thickness of a coin . This is to allow for expansion at operating temperatures. The objective is to have the plates level with or a tiny amount above the surround at working temperature. Note that there are adjusting screws in the top of the hot oven.

Remember to fit the thermostat and oven sensor before you finally fit the top. It is possible to replace and re-fit the thermostat with the top in place but this will not apply in your case.

Get yourself a detailed assembly/Installation manual from the Aga/Rayburn people. I have always found them most helpful.

Take you time and whatever the insulation type wear a mask !

Reply to
Richard

I have a bunch of pictures of the assembly of a 4 oven gas model if they would be of use to you.

From memory, one of the main issues is adjusting the threaded rods at each stage such that the component being supported is level.

If you have removed the insulation from the left hand oven module, you may need to install fresh. Apparently when new the material is coated in lanolin to allow it to be stuffed into the spaces. That is driven off on first firing and the material is then not easy to remove and replace.

Depending on its condition it may be worth replacing the Vermiculite in the main body.

One final point is to make sure that the surfaces of the plates are approximately 3mm below the cast rings surroiunding them when the unit is cold. When hot, expansion brings them up to the level of the ring.

To be honest, I would suggest having somebody from the dealer put it back together.

.andy

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Reply to
Andy Hall

When was it last serviced? I suspect you have a coking up problem in the burner oilways and possibly the burner underfeed tube. This requires a strip down and clean out together with the remainder of the service schedule works.

-- Please note antispam measures - do not hit reply Horse sense is what horses have that makes them not bet on people - W.C. Fields

Regards, John

Reply to
John

Bottom warming oven is also a pussy magnet! If you let them. And the hand(guard) rail along the front is great for leaning your butt on.. But don't mention it to a friends wife who came out of the bath and went to lean on the Rayburn to dry off, as you do. Only problem my friend had removed the rail to repair some blemish.... you can imagine the rest, burnt butt and one seriously unhappy missus :-)

Yea they have lots of uses. My mother had even used the warming oven as a surrogate mum chicken. The plate rack is a great place for drying things in a hurry. Paint brushes etc.. if you can get away with it!

Reply to
CJ

Reply to
Maximus Glutimus

Greetings, A usefil nugget gleaned froma an Aga engineer: re oil Aga's. If summer you may notice that your Aga runs hotter than in Winter for a set thermostat setting. Apparently this is because in Summer the oil is warmer and hence more "liquid" and runs through the feed pipes faster, so more oil to the burner. In winter the oil is thicker and so flow is slower and hence temp is lower. regarsd M

Reply to
m.holley

Your so called Aga engineer has made you the nugget. The scenario that he came up with is a load of codswallop. The thermostat that controls the high/low flame modulation is installed within the house ,usually screwed to the Aga itself. It is in a room temperature environment but in any case the temperature of an Aga or any other such device is controlled by an internal thermostat which I am sure you will eventually realise does not care if it is Summer or Winter outside.

Richard.

Reply to
Richard

NOT ALL Agas have thermostatic control. Many of the early models simply regulated the oil input flow via a needle valve from a constant head float chamber into the burner casting. Mind you I think the explanation whilst it "may" have some theoretical physics basis is getting a bit near the edge of the bullshit envelope since the viscosity of kerosine is not going to change all that much over the range of temperatures at the input to the float chamber (BM Box to those folks who have one). Possible other related factors by probable truth are

  1. Human impression of heat/humidity
  2. Variation of the metal clearances of the internals of the BM Box due to expansion allowing marginal variation in flow (non thermostat type)
  3. Reduction of thermal gradient from inside cooker to room temperature giving less "losses" and thus higher oven temperature
  4. any other things you can imagine when asked a question you don't have the answer for but don't want to admit it to customer
Reply to
John

Shame. Its ruinning cooler :-)

Reply to
The Natural Philosopher

God I get sick of thread smart ***es and thread hijackers. Hey people if you want to dribble, go somewhere else. If you want to ask another question, start your own thread. Rant over, back to the Aga servicing. I'm not an expert but this is what I do to my own 5yr old oil Aga. If your burner/pipes dont match the description below, you may need to adapt the process.

  1. Turn it off and let it cool (instructions inside burner door)
  2. Disconnect the oil line at the elbow. Put a rag underneath to catch any drips. Be careful of the elbow/join as you disconnect it.
  3. Slide out the whole burner unit on its plate.
  4. Note the orientation of the lid and the burner rings as you lift them off.
  5. Lift the lid off the oil bowl and you should find it coked up ie. you can't see the inlet hole.
  6. The wick may look tired but it will still work fine.
  7. Remove the pipe (not the pipe fitting) from the bottom of the bowl. Decoke the bowl, the hole (i use a small drillbit for the hole) and the bowl end of the pipe if necessary. A vacuum cleaner helps clean away the bits of carbon as you loosen them.
  8. Reassemble and follow the intstructions on the door to light.
  9. Don't alter the levelling screws on the burner plate - the installer will have set the plate level. It may take you a couple of hours the first time you do it. Next time it'll take you less than an hour. Good luck.
Reply to
David

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