Raised beds

The height is a matter of choice. If you want them quite high, that's fine, but even if lower, they have a number of claimed advantages.

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Raised bed gardening is a form of gardening in which the soil is formed in 3 ?

4 foot (1.0?1.2 m) wide beds, which can be of any length or shape. The soil is raised above the surrounding soil[1] (approximately 6 inches to waist-high), is sometimes enclosed by a frame generally made of wood, rock, or concrete blocks, and may be enriched with compost.[2] The vegetable plants are spaced in geometric patterns, much closer together than conventional row gardening.[2] The spacing is such that when the vegetables are fully grown, their leaves just barely touch each other, creating a microclimate in which weed growth is suppressed[2] and moisture is conserved.[3] Raised beds produce a variety of benefits: they extend the planting season,[2] they can reduce weeds if designed and planted properly[2] and reduce the need to use poor native soil. Since the gardener does not walk on the raised beds, the soil is not compacted and the roots have an easier time growing.[4] The close plant spacing and the use of compost generally result in higher yields with raised beds in comparison to conventional row gardening. Waist-high raised beds enable the elderly and handicapped to grow vegetables without having to bend-over to tend them.[4]

Chris

Reply to
Chris J Dixon
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Blinking heck!

We paid £26 a ton from a lawn company locally. Including delivery. We had 5 tons delivered though.

I have raised beds from pallet collars on my allotment. They're anything from free to £6 depending where you can source them. They are hinged so fold up nicely to go in a car.

I've not bothered lining them as I assume by the time they rot I'll want to move things round anyway.

Cloche or cold frame.

I think one of the post garden shops does a lovely range of these for about £80 each.

Reply to
mogga

In message , mogga writes

I can find you some *free* used tractor tyres:-)

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

Really? Near Oldham?

Reply to
mogga

Normally, just speak to a local farmer or his tyre company. It saves paying to have them taken away. If you want something bigger, then your local heavy plant hire place is where you want to be.

Reply to
John Williamson

What's the biggest size? And could it lined with plastic be a swimming pool? :)

Reply to
mogga

? 4 foot (1.0?1.2 m) wide beds, which can be of any length or shape. The soil is raised above the surrounding soil[1] (approximately 6 inches to waist-high), is sometimes enclosed by a frame generally made of wood, rock, or concrete blocks, and may be enriched with compost.[2] The vegetable plants are spaced in geometric patterns, much closer together than conventional row gardening.[2] The spacing is such that when the vegetables are fully grown, their leaves just barely touch each other, creating a microclimate in which weed growth is suppressed[2] and moisture is conserved.[3] Raised beds produce a variety of benefits: they extend the planting season,[2] they can reduce weeds if designed and planted properly[2] and reduce the need to use poor native soil. Since the gardener does not walk on the raised beds, the soil is not compacted and the roots have an easier time growing.[4] The close plant spacing

comparison to conventional row gardening. Waist-high raised beds enable the elderly and handicapped to grow vegetables without having to bend-over to tend them.[4]

Cheers for that.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

In message , mogga writes

There is an £8.00 disposal charge on tractor rears. Find your nearest agricultural tyre fitter:-)

regards

Reply to
Tim Lamb

ok, I had a bash at some yesterday:

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planned on doing them with a single length of 9x2 for each side, but the timber shop did not have that in long enough lengths. So I bought 6x

4.8m lengths of 6x2" in the end. (got about 2.4m left over). Also used about 2m of 3x3" fence post for the corners.

Prolly took about 3 hours including getting the timber. Timber cost £120.

Reply to
John Rumm

Fark. What a cracking idea, and I've seen loads of them lying around, too. Mostly used as flower beds, but two or three deep they'd be ideal veggy plots.

Reply to
Grimly Curmudgeon

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Well I'm not really a believer in raised beds per se but I would think you = might have been better overshooting the ends and putting the vertical post = outside the rectangle. All the forces are going to be trying to push the si= des off so your way you are depending on the nails to hold it together. Set= ting the posts outside would allow the post be anchored in the ground to he= lp resist the outward forces.

Just my tuppence worth.

Reply to
fred

Yes that is a fair point, although there is not going to be a huge amount of force involved. Although the article did not actually make it that clear (I may go and "improve" it) the direction of the "lap" at the end was significant, since it means the long sides are nailed not only to the face of the support block, but also pinned through ends of the short sides, meaning to move them away from the blocks you would need to shift not only the nails into the face, but the nails acting in shear into the ends of the boards.

For fixing in place, what I have seen done, is to drive a few bits of rebar into the ground on the inside adjacent to the sides, and then fix that to the side of timber with a bit of builders band and some screws. A bit easier to do than attempting to "plant" the whole post section.

(for the record, I did consider more elaborate joinery at the corners - possible half lapping each plank and then pinning down through the overlaps - but in the end rejected that since with 6x2 it would have taken very long fixings, plus another 32 cuts to prepare all the ends!)

Valued, thanks.

Reply to
John Rumm

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