Rain proofing garage door

The best way is to have the garage raised so the ground slopes downward away from it, as ours does, though a bit difficult to retrofit.

I take it you have examined the door mountings, there's no deliberate adjustment there and its impractical just to file the flange holes a bit to lower the door? I'd assume a gap at the top wouldn't be much of a problem to fix.

I'm guessing the gap isn't even enough to attach a packing strip of some kind to the bottom edge of the door.

I'd probably just rivet a bit of aluminium strip along the bottom, possibly ground away a bit in places if the ground isn't reasonably flat. Maybe a strip of the heavy plastic used for industrial door curtains, something like this:

how about sticking another hump on the bottom of the door? BTW, Toolstation sell a large number of different seals.

I have used a seal from these people and they are excellent at keeping the weather out. They do seals up to 50mm high so you should find something that fills your gap.

I wasn't keen on adding bits to the door if I could adjust the mechanism, but that doesn't look easy so I'll probably go for rivetting a strip to the bottom as you suggest.

Thanks, two humps might make all the difference.

Mike Halmarack snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Anything wrong with screwing a batten to the bottom of the door to reduce the gap?

You'll need some sort of raised bump as a deflector as TD has suggested but I'd also be suggesting some sort of rubber flap attached to the outside of that door batten to create an overlapping seal with the bump.

You could change your house name to Bactrian ;-)

We have a double garage and, originally, it had an up and over door which let in leaves and sometimes rain due to a gap at the bottom - between 1 and

I cut a length to the right size, folded in half along the middle, used an old iron and some paper to form the crease, and secured it with the door closed so it just touched the floor. I used pop rivets and washers but self tapping screws would do. We had an electric door opener - not a good one, it came with the house- so I needed to avoid extra ‘resistance’, hence only just touching.

It worked almost perfectly. No more leaves. We only had rain if there was a real issue when we had a puddle on the drive which slopes towards the garage - since fixed when we had the drive done.

It worked for a number of years. We eventually replaced the door when the opener and the door mechanism started to fail.

Get some car door seal type stuff.

I take it you have a good slope working for you. When they build houses, not everyone in the trade really cares about the fit and finish around the garage door.

If I was house shopping, and saw one of those garage setups which is below grade (first picture), it wouldn't matter how many drain holes were in front of the door, I'm just walk away from any interest in the house :-) Nobody remotely wants the possibility of what's in the first picture from happening. And in a deluge (some of the heavy rainstorms we're getting these days), you don't want to discover the diameter of your trench drain exit pipe wasn't big enough. Placing drains in front of a garage, they need maintenance and need to be kept clean.

Paul

My garage big door, faces the prevailing weather, and despite the up and over, not having a gap, rain was still blown in. I was better, once I replaced it with a roller, which had a rubber seal at the bottom, but still I had problems with ingress, at times.

Since then, I added an ACO type gutter, just in front of the door, which has entirely solved it.

Yes, we had one added when we had the drive block paved. It drains into the soak a way.

Thanks for all the input 0n this There's bound to be the ideal solution in there when applied to this particular problem.

If your drive slopes down towards the road, building regs now specify that you must fit that sort of drain, or something similar at the boundary of your drive and the pavement or road. This is stop your surface water ending up in the highway drainage systems.

From what I have seen here in West Sussex, barely one in ten block-paved drives/front gardens seem to bother with this requirement.

Of course, if your drive slopes the other way - as mine does - all the water from the road runs in!

My drive, rises up at 1:10, for around 40 feet, then mostly levels out at the top, for a further 40 feet. It pre-dates the need to prevent drainage on the the path and road.

Then complain to the highways authority and they *might* add an extra tarmac hump to keep highways water out of your property, or reset whatever kerb stones at the boundary of the pavement (if there is one) and the road.

I doubt if I'd have much luck. Judging by the location of various drains, they must believe that water runs up hill.