PVC cladding on top of Wallrock thermal liner - total waste?

I'm thinking of lining the wall of a small bathroom with PVC cladding.=20 The bathroom is basically an extension with 3 external walls (double leaf w= ith breeze blocks). I've read some positive comments about the Wallrock Thermal Liner and thoug= ht that this might help keeping this bathroom a bit warmer without wasting = much space (I have some spare Celotex 50mm). Then, on second thoughts, PVC = cladding in itself offer some heat reflection properties and it also mould/= condensation resistant and in the end installing the Wallrock would be an o= verkill as it doesn't retain the heat (only reflect - just like PVC claddin= g). I'm inclined to ditch the idea of the Wallrock and using only PVC cladding.= ..any thoughts?

Reply to
swimmydeepo
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with breeze blocks).

ught that this might help keeping this bathroom a bit warmer without wastin= g much space (I have some spare Celotex 50mm). Then, on second thoughts, PV= C cladding in itself offer some heat reflection properties and it also moul= d/condensation resistant and in the end installing the Wallrock would be an= overkill as it doesn't retain the heat (only reflect - just like PVC cladd= ing).

g...any thoughts?

This sounds confused. Fit insulation under the cladding, it would be foolis= h not to really. PIR is best, fibreglass cheapest. I'd skip multifoils.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

af with breeze blocks).

hought that this might help keeping this bathroom a bit warmer without wast= ing much space (I have some spare Celotex 50mm). Then, on second thoughts, = PVC cladding in itself offer some heat reflection properties and it also mo= uld/condensation resistant and in the end installing the Wallrock would be = an overkill as it doesn't retain the heat (only reflect - just like PVC cla= dding).

ing...any thoughts?

ish not to really. PIR is best, fibreglass cheapest. I'd skip multifoils.

I'd also fit CWI from inside. Its just a no brainer =A3wise. Polystyrene ba= lls are the easiest to do.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

In article , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk writes

The product you mention is only 3mm thick and no material in that thickness can provide any meaningful level of insulation. If you can stand to lose the space then use your spare celotex, if you can't then think about sourcing 25mm celotex (or substitute in seconds). If you're really stuck for space then hack the plaster off the walls and then use

25mm. With cavity walls I'd say you could do that without risk (although be sure to 360degree seal panels to the bare wall).

I assume you're thinking of this because you're finding the room cold at present and with 3 external walls I think you'd benefit from something extra.

At domestic temperatures claims of reflecting heat are just pants and bear in mind that in insulation no surface can reflect anything meaningful if it is in intimate contact with something else.

Reply to
fred

af with breeze blocks).

hought that this might help keeping this bathroom a bit warmer without wast= ing much space (I have some spare Celotex 50mm). Then, on second thoughts, = PVC cladding in itself offer some heat reflection properties and it also mo= uld/condensation resistant and in the end installing the Wallrock would be = an overkill as it doesn't retain the heat (only reflect - just like PVC cla= dding).

ing...any thoughts?

ish not to really. PIR is best, fibreglass cheapest. I'd skip multifoils.

I do agree proper insulation would be ideal but Wallrock Thermal Liner isn'= t proper insulation - it seems to me it acts like a reflector of heat which= is fine but not enough...and PVC panels in themselves do reflect heat back= in the room. What do you mean by PIR? Something like Celotex? I have some spare 50mm boa= rds but these takes some precious space (the bathroom is only 1.8m x 1.5m).= ..maybe I can consider some 25mm and then attach the PVC panels on top? At least the bathroom extension has a proper air gap made of breeze blocks = (which provide some insulation) the rest of the house is made of bricks - s= o I prefer to use the Celotex where is most needed.

Reply to
swimmydeepo

So, it seems you agree with my point - that Wallrock Thermal liner isn't th= e solution. I'll consider hacking the plaster off...maybe I can regain some space and t= hen use some Celotex...but then, I'm not that sure how to attach the PVC pa= nels to the Celotex maybe some glue? Stapling would be quick and easy but I= 'm going to bore the insulation...(dunno).

Reply to
swimmydeepo

Low expansion PU Foam aka drywall adhesive would probably work pretty well.

On an aside, I am costing the insulation phase of my roof thre seem to be some pretty good prices on ebay for Celotex (pristine, not seconds) - especially if you can buy a set of 10,20 or 30 sheets - eg 18-19 quid a sheet for 50mm - that's the sort of price I was getting second-grade Ballytherm for 3 years back.

Reply to
Tim Watts

In article , snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.co.uk writes

Sorry, had to snip all the context, that double line spaced quoting shit from GG is really pissing me off.

You can glue the celotex to the brick with low expansion 'fill & fix' foam and once set stick the panels to that using waterproof no more nails type product (you use 1/3 to 1/2 of a tube per panel).

Btw, you mention again in another reply that Wallrock and/or PVC cladding reflects heat back into the room, this simply does not happen at domestic temperatures.

Reply to
fred

proper insulation - it seems to me it acts like a reflector of heat which is fine but not enough...and PVC panels in themselves do reflect heat back in the room.

Sounds like marketing speak.

yup, polyisocyanurate foam

bathroom is only 1.8m x 1.5m)...maybe I can consider some 25mm and then attach the PVC panels on top?

indeed.

(which provide some insulation) the rest of the house is made of bricks - so I prefer to use the Celotex where is most needed.

Put it everywhere youre going to resurface anyway.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

panels to the Celotex maybe some glue? Stapling would be quick and easy but I'm going to bore the insulation...(dunno).

you know upvc surface roughens over time, becoming uncleanable

Reply to
meow2222

In article , snipped-for-privacy@care2.com writes

Speaking of too much work, is there really no way you can snip those useless lines of now quadspace filling that your news interface is inserting into otherwise useful contributions?

Time to hard kill GG posters I think, this junk really is too tiresome.

Reply to
fred

Abysmal isn't it. Still legible though.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

But not worth it

Reply to
fred

Thanks for all useful feedback.

Surely PVC panels cannot compare to Celotex in terms of insulation but mayb= e they are very close to the products like the Wallrock. The Wallrock has a soft/fluffy side while one surface is covered by some li= ning paper which is supposed to act as a heat reflector while the fluffy si= de is in direct contact with the wall. Well, the PVC panels in theory offer= something similar as these are hollow (trapped air act as an insulator) an= d if some lining paper backed by some fluffy material reflect heath why can= 't some PVC backed by trapper air? Regarding the problem of PVC panels becoming unclean-able over time - this = apply to normal walls too...at one point one need to repaint the lot - then= , why not paint over a PVC cladding (by sanding first).

An important point I forgot to mention about insulating the bathroom - ther= e is a big double glazing windows - it takes about 80% of the surface one o= f the 2 bigger walls...it seems to me that no matter how much Celotex it's = going to be used, the heat would escape through the window. In the end, it'= s better to see the wider picture (admit defeat) and settle for some extra = heating sources (e.g. an underfloor heating system coupled with a radiator)= - after all the bathroom is small and easy to heat up.

Now, as I settled for installing PVC panels (despite the skepticism) - rema= ins to know how to attach things (e.g. a picture onto them)...maybe drillin= g the wall and using plastic plugs?

Reply to
swimmydeepo

lining paper which is supposed to act as a heat reflector while the fluffy = side is in direct contact with the wall. Well, the PVC panels in theory off= er something similar as these are hollow (trapped air act as an insulator) = and if some lining paper backed by some fluffy material reflect heath why c= an't some PVC backed by trapper air?

Seems you're still believing the marketing speak

s apply to normal walls too...at one point one need to repaint the lot - th= en, why not paint over a PVC cladding (by sanding first).

because it looks crap

ere is a big double glazing windows - it takes about 80% of the surface one= of the 2 bigger walls...it seems to me that no matter how much Celotex it'= s going to be used, the heat would escape through the window. In the end, i= t's better to see the wider picture (admit defeat) and settle for some extr= a heating sources (e.g. an underfloor heating system coupled with a radiato= r) - after all the bathroom is small and easy to heat up.

the presence of glass doesnt have any effect on the amount of heat lost thr= ough a wall, or the saving insulating it makes.

But if you can add tertiary glazing instead of pvc/3mm insulation etc it wo= uld save more money.

why is a mystery. You can get a nicer more durable fire safe finish with pl= aster.

rilling the wall and using plastic plugs?

or use plugs for hollow PB walls. Or iron them on :)

NT

Reply to
meow2222

e lining paper which is supposed to act as a heat reflector while the fluff= y side is in direct contact with the wall. Well, the PVC panels in theory o= ffer something similar as these are hollow (trapped air act as an insulator= ) and if some lining paper backed by some fluffy material reflect heath why= can't some PVC backed by trapper air?

his apply to normal walls too...at one point one need to repaint the lot - = then, why not paint over a PVC cladding (by sanding first).

there is a big double glazing windows - it takes about 80% of the surface o= ne of the 2 bigger walls...it seems to me that no matter how much Celotex i= t's going to be used, the heat would escape through the window. In the end,= it's better to see the wider picture (admit defeat) and settle for some ex= tra heating sources (e.g. an underfloor heating system coupled with a radia= tor) - after all the bathroom is small and easy to heat up.

hrough a wall, or the saving insulating it makes.

would save more money.

drilling the wall and using plastic plugs?

No I'm not buying the marketing talk...why do you keep repeating yourself? = Are you a sentimental old school plasterer fighting against the PVC panels = "movement"?!=20 If you read my messages I've admitted that Celotex is proper insulation whi= le Wallrock and PVC Panels aren't - but surely the last 2 do a better job t= han plaster (in that context) - just the fact that I dropped the idea of bu= ying Wallrock for my bathroom should tell I'm not that gullible. The present plaster in my bathroom gets mouldy and that reason alone is a g= ood excuse for using something else - e.g. PVC panels (at least in a bathro= om). =20 Tiles are pleasant to look at, but these are prone to condensation just lik= e plaster. PVC is just more practical for bathrooms...oh, and forget about = the old pvc myth, the modern pvc panels just look stunning (get yourself up= dated).

Regarding the presence of glass not having any effect in the amount of heat= loss - I must have read something about a 75% glazing rule somewhere - but= sorry I'm just not bothered at the moment to find out the data (get yourse= lf updated)....just common sense would be enough to figure out that your as= sumption (the glazing surface is irrelevant) is unfounded - if not why sugg= esting to use triple glazing?! That in fact should be the first priority; t= hen perhaps it would make more sense using thicker Celotex panels for the r= est of the bathroom - at least losing precious room volume would be justifi= ed.

Reply to
swimmydeepo

lining paper which is supposed to act as a heat reflector while the fluffy side is in direct contact with the wall. Well, the PVC panels in theory offer something similar as these are hollow (trapped air act as an insulator) and if some lining paper backed by some fluffy material reflect heath why can't some PVC backed by trapper air?

apply to normal walls too...at one point one need to repaint the lot - then, why not paint over a PVC cladding (by sanding first).

is a big double glazing windows - it takes about 80% of the surface one of the 2 bigger walls...it seems to me that no matter how much Celotex it's going to be used, the heat would escape through the window. In the end, it's better to see the wider picture (admit defeat) and settle for some extra heating sources (e.g. an underfloor heating system coupled with a radiator) - after all the bathroom is small and easy to heat up.

through a wall, or the saving insulating it makes.

would save more money.

drilling the wall and using plastic plugs?

you a sentimental old school plasterer fighting against the PVC panels "movement"?!

Wallrock and PVC Panels aren't - but surely the last 2 do a better job than plaster (in that context) - just the fact that I dropped the idea of buying Wallrock for my bathroom should tell I'm not that gullible.

excuse for using something else - e.g. PVC panels (at least in a bathroom).

plaster. PVC is just more practical for bathrooms...oh, and forget about the old pvc myth, the modern pvc panels just look stunning (get yourself updated).

loss - I must have read something about a 75% glazing rule somewhere - but sorry I'm just not bothered at the moment to find out the data (get yourself updated)....just common sense would be enough to figure out that your assumption (the glazing surface is irrelevant) is unfounded - if not why suggesting to use triple glazing?! That in fact should be the first priority; then perhaps it would make more sense using thicker Celotex panels for the rest of the bathroom

- at least losing precious room volume would be justified.

better to put the celotex on the outside of the walls, then the walls become a heat store.

But you'd have to waterproof them, and the roof overhang may not work.

Removing plaster is great fun, i'v got a special angled 4inch attachment for my SDS drill and i've been having great fun with it today!

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george - dicegeorge

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