im soon planning to move a few rads but instead of using soldered joints im tempted to use the pushfit fittings . ive used a few in the past with no problems but what about with a high pressurised combi boiler ch system? any experiences/advice or opinions would be really useful.
If a complete DIYer and no experience of soldered joints ten use copper and brass/copper push-fits.
As long as you use good quality products, e.g. Speedfit, HEP2O, Marley.... then they work fine.
The maker's instructions need to be followed carefully, especially regarding cutting the pipe square with a proper tubing cutter for plastic. Pipe inserts should be used where indicated by the fitting type. Some of the manufacturers such as Speedfit have a twist action lock ring for extra security and perhaps an extra O-ring in the fitting.
Barrier pipe should be used. This prevents oxygen diffusion into the water through the pipe. It is now the most common type, but does cost a little more.
The fittings are not aesthetically pleasing. Generally it is better to use copper tube for the connections to the valves and convert to plastic with a fitting out of sight. The plastic fittings will accept copper tube, but do make sure that it is properly deburred to avoid slicing the O-ring.
Another option, if you don't fancy soldering or compression fittings is that there are push fit fittings for copper tube, for example Yorkshire Fittings' Tectite products.
I used a mixture of Speedfit pipe with their fittings copper pipe with Tectite fittings for a secondary heating loop for my workshop. This is run via a heat exchanger to separate it from the main house system and is separately sealed and pressurised to 1.5 - 2.0 bar, temperatures to 80 degrees.
There have been no problems with it at all.
The only common restriction with plastic is not to use it withing a metre of the boiler .andy
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Speedfit? Please!
2nd rate
Fine along with Osma Gold. Avoid Polyplumb
IMM, tenth rate, at best.
I've found that it works perfectly well
Can you cite specific and verifiable instances of problems?
I have used it without problems as well.
Evidence?
.andy
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C'mon - you should know by now that IMM doesn't rely on inferior reasoning tools such as 'evidence' - he just /knows/.
Oh, yes, sorry, I forgot. We're all a bunch of armatures.
Enough of this - I'd better 'motor' over to the plumber's merchants before they close......
(Well, you have to drop them in when you can...)
.andy
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Well I have some polyplumb stuff, and being my first attempt at pushfit, I did it 'by the book'
Pressure tested it to 10 bar, it held.
*shrug*.IMM is as usual talking out of someones catalogue.
I don't like pushfit that much, but it works.
In message , mark al writes
I used Hep2O when I did out combi powered CH, plus other plumbing about
5 years ago.I had one problem leak because I had not pushed the pipe into the fitting properly (poor access, and I should have known better) other than that it has been fine.
I've used it and hate it - just that feeling of quality and reliability that is lacking. Will not buy it again, ever.
Used loads of Hep2O on a number of properties and never had a problem with it, provided it gets pushed into the fitting sufficiently. Buy the 'proper' pipe cutting tool or blag your local merchants into giving you one for free. Always use pipe inserts. Barrier pipe is supposed to be better for CH systems but I don't know of a single plumber (all CORGI registered) who bothers paying the extra. The only drawback of not using it is that British Gas will not then cover it as part of their 'breakdown insurance' packages.
The pipe is reasonably priced but fittings can be expensive. You just need to know where to go. I can get hold of any Hep fitting for £1 each if anyone is interested, although you would need to make it a pack big enough to be worthwhile. E-mail me direct if you want some.
Overall, pushfit is a boon and much quicker that copper, without any fire risk. Let me hope I never live to regret saying that!
No experience with this since it is not stocked at my local merchants.
Screwfix is selling some copper push-fits. They look ok but not sure of their quality in service. They are much lower profile and yesterday I put a few in where the pipework would be visible. We shall see how they fare.
Just some thoughts. Rob
..and our redident clown says....
Yes he does make us all laugh. Life and soul of a party no doubt.
So do Lada's for while.
Gledhill specifically state in some of their documentation reservations over Polyplumb.
Yes, well 99.99% of you.
????
Sometimes!
I know what you mean.
What do you expect from plumbers. Non-barrier is fine in an opoen veted system, but should be used in a sealed system. Marley, Spedfit and Osma Gold only have barrier pipe.
I see why.
Use cheap copper pipr and pushfit, much better all around.
New to me. Must be very recent.
There are a number of makers with a history of quality around: Conex, Tectite, etc..
They are probably make by a third party, hence the low [profile. John Guest, originally a toy maker, are a plastic company and that is where they make big bucks.
Plastic has to be well supported and clipped. Use copper pipe and horizontal runs.
Did you have specific problems?
Have you used the newer type of fittings with the twist-lock and the inserts with additional O-ring?
Says it all, doesn't it. Buying on price and not the appropriate product for the job.
They probably don't put inhibitor in either - another way of ensuring repeat business.
That's probably a blessing....... .andy
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That is not quite correct. The issue of oxygen diffusion is not related to whether the system is open or sealed but whether it is a closed circulation system or not - i.e. the same water circulating continuously; and the fact that heating systems normally contain ferrous metal components - e.g. radiators.
For DHW and potable water services, it becomes a non-issue because the water already contains a fair amount of oxygen anyway.
.andy
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OK, so as normal, you have no supporting evidence.
.andy
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